Friday 31 January 2020

Newhaven. Platinum Point. Western Breakwater. A Light at the end of the World.

After our visit to Leith then the mural wall our next stop was Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre.
Ocean Point Building. Always something of interest in this vicinity here as well... and not just shopping. A short sea front walk around the harbour, shipping and the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen's old ship which is now retired and permanently berthed here.
When you are on board this ship the royal quarters do not seem that large, small modest rooms and very dated looking now, 60 years later (the glass partition area mainly.) The rest of the ship is taken up with crew quarters, food and supplies, living and laundry rooms. ( On tour in warm countries the Royal Family had to change clothes five or six times a day. Not good if on official visits you are seen to be soaking with sweat which is a natural reaction in hot humid climates.) Although a supposed privilege to serve on the Royal Yacht crew quarters seemed tiny to me as well and I'd imagine you would have to be on your best behaviour at all times. But apparently the Royal Family, and especially the Queen, loved their holidays aboard, often touring remote Scottish islands, where they could relax, apart from maybe Princess Diana, a new recruit to the firm then, (and I think on her honeymoon) who had to be on her best behaviour. Mind you, not many teenagers/twenty somethings full of high spirits, would appreciate a sedate cruise, with or without the in-laws.
A large ship when you realise it's the equivalent of the family car. You can't really see the outside properly when exploring it so this is a view from the Western Harbour. The small craft in front is presumably to enter places, shallow harbours, islands, etc where the Britannia could not go. Of course, if you can't afford this lifestyle you can have as much fun and adventure sightseeing with a £40 tent and backpack. Probably more fun and adventure.
The inside of Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre. Handy for the toilets in this vicinity.
The outside of O.T.S.C. and a rainbow bus.
Ocean View Flats. These remind me of the old 1980s Darnley estate close to where I grew up. A deck access playground of open corridors, stairwells, and connecting hi level pedestrian walkways between the various buildings . Lessons have been learned since then however and this is not so open of access, unless you live in them and have a reason for being there.
The other side of the estate.
This area has been redeveloped with new housing stock in a range of different styles. Each individual complex within its own environment is a mini high rise separate city state in its own right. A land of mini kingdoms if you will instead of the vast uniform council estates of old in Scotland where long straight rows of identical tenements prevailed.
Instead this is a smorgasbord of architecture.  I really like it...to look at anyway.... Anne less so. But it was all new to her so she did enjoy it.
"You're right." She commented. " They do love round towers in Edinburgh."
"Yup." says I. "and in a wide range of different styles."
The crowning glory of this area though for me is the West Breakwater and Platinum Point. The kingdom by the sea.
" It's like the Emerald City in Oz." I explained.  "A high rise confection rising from a flat plain, isolated and special. Completely unique."
"You've got this modern development dropped down on the very edge of the coast with the Port of Leith's West Breakwater made of large 100 year old blocks that will probably last centuries." I elaborated further.  "Stuck next to Egypt's pyramids they'd probably last thousands of years in a desert environment if the sea didn't hit them here. Stone immortality." I said this as we walked along said breakwater, hoping to transfer some of the magic I felt  the first time I came here almost 20 years ago.

"What a place." "It's unusual." She admitted. "Where's the Munchkins then?"

"Ah, you saw them earlier, Dorothy, my guest of honour. Don't you remember?"
" I do remember that. But that's cheating."
" Anything for a story." Says I. "Do you think that's a radio operator for a ship?"
"Could be,"


" It's the nearest I'll get to an Emerald City."
"Not visiting Dublin then?"
On cue our sunset arrived.
Forth Road and Rail Bridges. " Come on- that's pretty special."
" Not too bad." She conceded.
"You are a very hard lady to please."
We then walked to the far end of the breakwater where an abandoned and lonely feeling lighthouse sits. Imagine two arms hugging and sheltering a large basin (The Port of Leith- still the largest enclosed deep water port in Scotland) then imagine us walking out to the fingertips.
"This is a remote spot." she admitted when we arrived, taking my favourite circular tour under the stilts supporting this structure where the sea, at high tide, laps the pillars.
" Yep. It does have a very desolate atmosphere about it." Anne declared.  "A sort of post apocalyptic shabby chic." she joked. "I would not like to be here myself. It doesn't feel like Edinburgh somehow."
"It might be a portal between two worlds." This from me, adding to the atmosphere... no-one else in sight on either long breakwater arm, with a watery entrance channel preventing the fingertips from touching each other . " Not many folk make it out to here. Least visited location in the city, maybe." I guessed.
" Not my idea of a des res unfortunately." she offered, weaving between the pillars and avoiding the slippy seaweed. Right! We're done. Tides coming in. "
Look, The sea has bubble fingers. Five digits. Shake it's mighty hand. It's pleased to see you."
"No thanks.  It's going to be dark soon wicked witch and I want to go there next. " She pointed away.
In the distance we could see Calton Hill with its monuments. " I've never been up there at night but I've seen Sunshine on Leith recently and it looks good. Let's go."
So we did, jumping on a local bus and arriving 15 minutes later under Calton Hill.
Arthur's Seat and Edinburgh from Calton Hill.
" Now this is much better than a lighthouse at the end of the world." Anne declared. "Let the party begin!"
Fine words... but when we did eventually get the bus back to Glasgow she ended up sleeping all the way, city to city, while I read a book in contented silence in the darkness of the journey, with my little personal star above the only awake and vigilant companion, shining down on the pages.
The end.




 


















4 comments:

Carol said...

I never see the point in round buildings of any kind - too hard and impractical to furnish!

blueskyscotland said...

Hi Carol,
Good point. Never thought about that until you mentioned it. Edinburgh has quite a few modern round towers so maybe they have curved units and furniture supplied, or straight inside walls or some other way of getting around it. Did see a woman with a round cottage and she did have problems getting curved furniture and kitchen units to fit against the walls and not loose valuable space in the rooms.

Anabel Marsh said...

Mostly new to me too! Never been to Ocean Terminal.

blueskyscotland said...

Hi Anabel,
Worth a visit if you both have free bus pass and concession discount into Britannia. That's interesting and the shopping centre is one of the better ones around. Not far to walk to Leith waterfront from there and fairly scenic passing several docks. 22 bus from Princes Street to O.T. or one to Leith.