Rhyolite Romp.Aonach Dubh.Ossian`s Cave.

Bob:

Picture this.Glencoe at the start of a public holiday. The royal wedding.Hip hip....A sunny morning in this normally cloud attracting glen.Car parks full of cars and walkers keen to get away from the day long saturation coverage of the event in the media including myself, Scott, Froodo (young Alex renamed at old Alex suggestion to avoid confusion) and his pal Ian.
We spent hours walking along a "path" below the shoulders of the highest mountain in Argyll (Bidean nam Bian) an area crawling with hill walkers yet we were totally,utterly alone.
Where were we?   Rhyolite Romp.....a monster traverse line that runs on narrow ledges above sheer cliffs of crumbling ancient lava high on the face of Aonach Dubh....the most westerly and spectacular of the three sisters towering above the glen.The one with Ossian`s cave on it.
Even if you`ve never been to Scotland you would probably recognise these iconic buttresses from countless films.Highlander,Braveheart,Rob Roy....hardly a big budget film made about the Highlands does not  have  at least one  view of this triptych.

A while ago Scott and myself had reminisced about a previous visit along these narrow ledges in pouring rain.That was about ten years ago.My only visit up here.Scott had returned with others a couple of years later still in not great conditions.He must like it up here in damp weather :o)
Anyway I mentioned out loud, unthinking, that I wouldn't mind another crack at it before my bottle for heights disappeared  down the plughole with age and he said "no time like the present.. Right. That sounds like a plan then!"
That,ll teach me :o(

The route starts from the car park at Loch Achtriochtan then climbs up here...Dinnertime Buttress to reach the ledge.An obvious fault line creeping between lower vegetated  crumbling basalt and a cleaner,steeper more solid rhyolite band above,hence the name.

You can see the car park start point below in this photograph from Dinnertime Buttress.
As a guide we were using an old favourite among  keen scramblers. Scrambles in Lochaber by Noel Williams.This is an excellent book if used with due care and diligence as it often takes you into wild and spectacular scenery above huge voids.
Although technically down as a "walk" which I suppose it is really ,its also the most extreme example of outdoor walking I can think of in Scotland.Its no place for a slip or stumble and requires a good head for heights and steady footwork for hours at a time as it wanders across a kilometre of sloping grass and rock,some of it a bit on the loose side.It then doubles back under Ossian`s cave weaves up onto a higher ledge via a steep ramp before another kilometre of joyful abyss gazing before finally topping out onto the shoulder of the mountain.

This is us at the start of the ledges.Unfortunately to get good pictures I had to go in front. I had thought ten years later we would now find a reasonable path established up here but it doesn`t look as if it gets many ascents at all.It would be interesting to find out how many people use this tip toe across the void in a year.On the lack of foot rubbing  hereabouts I bet the summit of Mount Everest gets more traffic per season.

In winter it would be good preparation for the north face of the Eiger.Its that kind of route.High risk of self avalanche though methinks....

The traverse crosses several shallow gullies then ends in a deeper gully leading you under Ossian`s cave.We followed this up past several large boulders to a point where it was easier to scramble onto the arete/ramp than follow the narrowing gully.

Some big E routes go up these walls to the right of the cave.
Yo Yo  E1
The Clearances  E3
Eldorado  E4

Just looking up at them produced an involuntarily shiver in us all.Although I`ve done some easy grade rock climbing this stuff is a whole other level.

The cave itself is a miserable damp sloping slot.Ossian must have been a spider to feel happy clinging on in here as its floor is at a 45 degree angle caused by a large block falling out Its certainly not worth the loose and dangerous climb to reach it.A fact a lot of folk find out too late as bad falls and fatalities tend to happen on the slippy descent.Years ago there used to be a little visitors book in it but it was removed after so many accidents.

The scramble up the ramp was enough for us as a strong gusting wind had appeared on these upper levels.A bit off putting  balanced on narrow ledges and aretes.This was also an area that required careful route finding.We ended up too high (I blame the one in front! ) so we had to backtrack down steep grass to find the right ledge.

Good photo opportunity though for the man with the camera :o)
Hours of concentration,a buffeting wind and endless shuffling sideways took its toll on some (myself and Ian mainly) so we bailed out before the full romp ended when we saw an opportunity to escape up grassy ledges to the top.It was then a grateful plod to the comfort of the tourist track descent which seemed almost level ground by comparision.

On the higher slopes waterfalls were being blown back uphill by the wind.
An adventurous and interesting day out above an awesome abyss.Would I do it all again in another ten years?Yea gods....I certainly hope not.I`d rather be poked in both eyes with a cactus.
Mind you even Rhyolite Romp is too playful a name for a route that takes you across such mind blowing territory........Steepy Creepy Crabcrawl sets a more appropriate tone I think and gives you more of an insight as to what lies ahead for your soft,easily burst, little body to tremble at...
And on that note...........the end.

Arran.North Circular.

Bob.

Up at 7 am to catch the 9.45 am ferry to the wonderful Island of Arran.If there is a more scenic and serene time of year in Scotland than late April/early may I`ve yet to see it.For a start its normally settled, warm and sunny countrywide a rare novelty highlighted by a positive explosion of colour everywhere.

Pink and white cherry blossom in full bloom,yellow gorse covering the hillsides,fresh leaves spurting open in every shade of green,sharp and clean.No midge or munching insects yet.As near to heaven as the UK gets.

One of the prettiest islands in spring is Arran so I was determined not to miss this very short season during the 3 brief weeks of cherry blossom time.We are so lucky in the central belt to live so close to the Firth of Clyde islands.A truly magical archipelago and a fairly cheap day out.Car to nearby Ardrossan £2 quid parking fee in ferry compound.Ferry return with bike£10.Sorted. Nirvana for £12 quid.

Set off round the island in tropical sunshine along with assorted fellow cyclists, most of whom soon left me behind.Some folks like to bomb round the entire island, head down with as few stops as possible.Usually a necessity if you want to get round the 60 miles approx in time for the last ferry.I prefer a more sedate approach,stopping off to explore points of interest or for a photo.Even then, doing only half the island you still don't get much time in each village if you want to catch the last boat home.There are buses round both sides of the island but I like the freedom a bike gives.Hard work though as even the coastal road can be hilly in places.

First village reached 9 kms in was Corrie.As you can see its an ugly wee place.Stunning views of the famous ridge,a nice little harbour,a river inlet area as well.....

Whitewashed village street with palm trees and "Tame" resident seal on a rock.....

Most of the villages of Arran are small,some only a shop and a scattering of mixed houses but all are beautiful,unique and special in their own way placed evenly around the coastal road like jewels on a necklace.

Just as well as a big climb was next between Sannox and Lochranza.The occasional steep hill doesn't bother me.If its too bad I don't mind walking.It gives the bum a rest.
Lochranza has a ruined castle sitting in its tidal bay.Its also where the ferry arrives and departs for Claonaig on the Kintyre peninsula .A lovely place with a local distillery,campsite, golf course ,quiet walks on the headland and small shops.Golf is a very popular sport on Arran with many of the villages home to full or half sized courses.

Might have to putt around the wildlife though on the greens. Catacol came next.A purpose built neat row of houses for folk cleared off estate grounds and placed here beside the sea to try  fishing instead.As I soon found out though this western coastal strip is very exposed to storms  and even on a nice day like this was hard going pedaling into a very strong headwind.Lovely location though as your kids bellies rumbled with a wave tossed sea view and boats tied up useless on the beach.Most of the people these cottages were meant for went elsewhere to other parts of the island.A lovely little village today though.

Although this is normally my favourite section,quiet with less traffic I didnt enjoy it as much today as it seemed to take fovever, head down legs pumping  moving at a snails pace against the wind.Set back Pirnmill and Whitefarland passed in slow motion ,flapping sheets hung out in gardens with  loads of extra pegs.A good drying day methinks!

Turning inland  finally with a sigh of relief the infamous String road beckoned.The toughest climb on the island.
Oh goodie! After a token on the bike fight I gave up and walked to the top,legs like jelly.
After some jam tarts,limeade and a check of the brakes I was ready for the monster descent into Brodick.

Got the last ferry back at 7.30pm.Home for 9.00pm.Self made chips,peas and chops by 10.00pm.
A tough but good day.
Footnote.
I remember years ago at the pub in Catacol some American tourists came in driving expensive classic  touring cars,dripping money and  obviously used to the best hotels around the world.One asked if the bar did a range of seafood platters.
The  busy barman quick as a flash took down  two packets of scampi fries(flavoured chips) from the snacks box and put them on plates.
Although the woman was not particularily amused everyone else including her friends appreciated the style as it was done with a gentle humour.They all settled for a pretty decent cod and chips.Our crowd had bridie,beans and chips,a much loved filling staple that seems to have been dropped from most menus.Not enough profit I suppose.
Happy times though.

Carn Ban and Beinn a` Chaisteil.

16th/17th April.

I haven`t been on a bike for over a year so wasn`t looking forward to the cycle in one little bit.As always though,it was never as bad as it seemed beforehand and I actually enjoyed it.I was grateful that I had listened to Bob and Scott though and donned a pair of cycling shorts :)

Looking east down Gleann Beag...

Looking west up Gleann Beag....

This was my first outing for over a month while I tried to give my foot a break so it might seem daft to pick one of the remotest hills in Scotland.There was method in the madness though as the brunt of it could be done by bike and there was a good stalkers path leading up the first 1,000 feet of ascent.Scott and I left Bob and Froodo at the weir and started up the hill about 2`o`clock or so while Froodo rehydrated with a few cans of Mr.Becks finest lager.The path was excellent and I doffed my hat in acknowledgement of the guys who built it all those years ago.We were up in jig time and soon reached the delightful Loch Srùban Mòre which Scott suggested we be the ultimate getaway from it all camping spot.

The foot got progressively worse from here on to the extent that I couldn`t be bothered with the camera so the days photos are courtesy of Scott

Looking over Loch à Choire Mhòir to the Assynt hills...

Hobbling over the plateau to the summit..

We made it back down to the bikes at 6pm and set off up the side of the river with the sun now shining. This was absolute torture on my foot with tussocky bog twisting it and I gradually fell behind.The bothy eventually hove into view but the last few hundred yards were a struggle.Earlier in the day a can of beer had punctured in my rucksack and sprayed all over my sleeping bag and thermarest.Bob had graciously carried them in earlier in order to hang them out to get rid of the stale beer smell . Luckily I still had one left and plonked myself down on the first chair...nectar :o) Pottered around sawing wood and cooking dinner and putting a freezing gel on my foot from time to time until Bob and Froodo arrived back at 9pm.The gel didn`t seem to do much good but the bottle of wine seemed to do the trick :)

Awoke to a lovely sunny morning and it seemed a shame to rush about on a morning like this so we lazed around cooking breakfast and watching a dipper darting up and down the river.

The offending foot seemed to have decided to play ball and the walk back to the bike was a painlesss one.

Walking away from the bothy...

A wee tip.The north bank of the river is a much better way in and out of the bothy...bog free in the main.We managed to cross the river without getting wet just down from the bothy.Scott and I were away ahead of the others as we were going to do Beinn a Chaisteil on the way out.


Looking up Gleann Mor towards Alladale on the way out.....

We dumped the bikes and were high up on the western slopes as the others biked into view...ants in this huge landscape.

You can see the track out below Meall a Chaorainn  in this pic from Scott,

The foot was miraculously still behaving itself as we wandered over to the summit.The view was surprisingly good and better than the map would indicate.Ben Loyal was prominent up on the northern coast and we lay around for half an hour picking out the hills we could see.Back down to the bikes...

.... and a quick descent back to the main road.

Looking back to the bothy at Lubachlaggan on the way out....

Picked up Froodo and a quick stop at the ever friendly Tarvie transport cafe and we were off home.
Footnote to Bob`s entry.He commented on the minimalist size of my panniers but the prize for the lightest load must surely go to Froodo.No sleeping mat,no stove,gas or pans,nothing at all actually other than a few sandwiches,a bottle of wine,a half bottle of Glenmorangie and 4 cans of beer.Having consumed all of this on the Saturday night in the bothy he had nothing left to carry out.Eat your heart out all you lightweight freaks..!

Seana Bhraigh and Glenbeg Bothy .

16th and 17th April.


This is arguably the hardest weekend trip posted on this blog yet.At least my body is telling me that.The Canna trip comes close and also that long day on Arran but for sheer sustained effort over a 30 hour period this is the daddy.I be well trashed! Thanks guys.

Stunning weather as usual.This is coming back through the Cairngorms.I was happy to see  two cyclists huffing up hills here.Great to see someone else suffer now I was in my comfort zone again,ie,eating ,drinking and sitting in a car.
Now spring is here it was far north time for the mountaineering club.Alex and I tagged along secretly wondering if we could keep up.
Between west coast Ullapool and east coast Bonar Bridge lies an area of remote glens and high mountains with the peaks of  Beinn Dearg and Seana Bhraigh towering over the landscape of bogs, rivers, cliffs and ridges.Few people live here,only a few farms nearer the coast and isolated inland shooting lodges with vast estates covering many glens.No roads go through this area only a few rough land rover tracks cut into the wilderness to provide access to these lodges and for ease of reaching deer and other game for their clients to have a pop at though these days said clients are getting harder to find due to the changing tastes of the ultra rich.
Super yachts seem to be the big thing now.
Several bothies sit in these hard to reach glens.It was to one of these we were heading.
So...up at 4.30 am on Saturday morning to meet the rest of the guys at 6.00 am on the northern outskirts of Glasgow.A group of five of us with bikes ,panniers and rucksacks set off in two cars towards Inverness.
Alex,Scott,John,myself and new club recruit Alex (a younger model of the old git in case his legs go :o)
We reached our destination of Black Bridge 10 km north of Garve 4 hours later.The plan was to mountain bike in from here along 18 kilometers of rough  up and down track to Glenbeg bothy. On the way John would bag a Corbett above Loch Vaich while the rest of us would carry on until the end of the track.From here the other two,Scott and Alex, would do another unbagged  Corbett while myself and young Alex walked into the bothy and would then decide on a plan.I refuse to get addicted to Corbetts as I know I`ll never finish them and they might finish me instead.Variety,that's the key!

Alex won the prize for the world`s smallest panniers.Two cans of beer or a couple of lumps of coal filled them up. 18 km is nothing on a bike on good smooth tarmac.On hard packed pebbles,grass ,ruts and potholes however it seemed to go on forever climbing up out of one trench,Strath Vaich through into another,Gleann Beag. In a land rover it would be a sweet, easy journey gliding into the far flung mountain lodges of the interior sipping your complementary dram with barely a ripple in the glass.

On a bike though it fairly shook the eyeballs,stressed the wrists and fingers and thumped your bum every inch of the way.This pic above is at the top of one of the climbs.

And this another before the drop into Gleann Beag.
I was cheerily informed by a passing  outgoing veteran mountain biker that there are far tougher routes through the Scottish mountains  on a bike but  this soft bunny has no intention of ever finding them.This was hard enough for me.A living nightmare for every  self repecting sensible couch potato.There a good reason we invented sofas,crisps, coke and telly you know.
Its bloody good  fun!
Three long  hours of bum battering later we arrived at the very end of the track.I`ve never been so happy to start walking again.From here  it was another 2 km of pathless bog slog through humps and hollows to reach the bothy.
Alex and Scott chained up their bikes here and started up their hill.Young Alex elected to do the same as myself and walk in, hand carrying panniers and rucksack.Mad me thought it would be a challenge to shake the damn bike for a change and get my own back on it so I rolled carried, pushed, and heaved it in ,panniers still intact up the glen.It wasn't too bad although I had to wade along in the river for a spell,knee deep in the shallows when steeper hillsides repulsed me.Wonder if any other nutter has ever taken a bike in here?
After a quick rest and  lunch munch Young Alex and I decided on Seana Bhraigh.It would be a new Munro for him and I had a hankering to see those great northern cliffs again one last time.
Climbed from this direction its a very remote Munro indeed though,23 km
 from the main road.The only other time I climbed it was coming in from Bonar Bridge on an east west east again bothy and mountains tour.Some great bothies up here.
Seana Bhraigh is one of the great gems of Scotland but the wide southern slopes seemed  endless as we trudged on and on  ever upwards,already knackered from our bike ride.No time for any rest though as I didn`t fancy coming off this complex and mainly unfamiliar hill in the dark in such a remote area.

Finally we reached the ridge line and the great curved wall of cliffs came into view giving us a much needed lift and a cool breeze. Young Alex was impressed.I don't think he was expecting this after a pretty featureless ascent.

All too soon it was time to head down and we reached the bothy just before 9.00 pm.An eleven hour day of hard bone shaking graft.
Back at the bothy I`d unintentionally caused a problem for John by taking my bike in. He came down off his solo Corbett and noticed the chained bikes of the others.He also spotted mine was missing so assumed everyone was taking them into the bothy when they returned from the hill and proceeded to hump his in as well..oops  :o)
"This is beyond madness!" was voiced by him a few times as he heaved ,carried,lifted and dragged his fully laden bike across ditches, rivers and swamp.
Luckily we were still  up the hill when he arrived so that gave him time to calm down and stress out a bit.
I enjoyed it though.It was fun.

Cooking and eating our tea in the bothy revived us all.We`d carried coal in from the road so had a great fire going in the stove that was the centrepeice of the room.
Not that much banter Saturday night.Think we were all too tired but  quietly happy.Small regular glugs of alcohol reviving us more and more until we no longer felt any pain.

The next morning the weather was fantastic.Blue skies,light winds,hot!     HOT!! IN Scotland!!!!!!!!!!  I was a broken puppy though,every muscle ached as I hobbled about making breakfast.Auld Alex was the same rubbing gel on his sore foot but I`ve got to give him credit.He had his boots on and was keen for a second Corbett on the way out.(Thats also why I don't want to get into bagging them.)
He probably wont be able to walk for weeks now!Curse his addiction!
We cleaned up ,packed the bags and  crawled, waded,walked  pushed and slid out. At the road end our sore buttocks  went back on the ultimate torture devices for bums then new fresh battering commenced.

The highlights of that Sunday for me were....(apart from the company of course)
No 1........Reaching the tarmac road.
No 2......A tasty big plate of  chips at our usual stop off on the way down.Ballinluig transport cafe.A real gem of a place .Five gold stars.A meal munchers delight.
No 3.......Falling on my sofa once back in the house followed by a night of mindless telly as the hardest thing attempted was switching channels with the remote while chewing slowly  though crisps,coke,grapes,cooked chicken legs,yet more chips, then fried potatoes,bacon ,eggs, tatty scones and beans.I raided the cupboards and fridge twice  for two seperate dinners two hours apart. I was still hungry going to bed at midnight so munched a spare packet of cashew nuts before driffing off to sleep,stuffed and content again.
I`ll never leave you again sofa , bed and telly.I promise.You mean far too much to me......kiss,kiss,kiss.
An epic hard trip.The kind you remember for a long long time.
Maybe next week,after all the aches and pains fade to a dull murmer, I`ll discover I  enjoyed it :o)

View of Glasgow on return.Funny thing that.Glad to go away.......Glad to come back again.

Loch Katrine-Aberfoyle Circuit.

No Alex.He`s still resting his sore paw for a week longer. When I`m on my own I prefer cycling to walking so this is a classic easy day cycle tour on a perfect Sunday at the start of April.
Depending on number of rest stops and speed of bike the full circuit takes between  three to six hours in an area stuffed with history.Three hours is a fast time, most will take four or longer.I was steady paced at four.
Parked in the large main car park beside Loch Katrine pier head in the heart of the Trossachs and paid my £3 meter fee.There are other suitable laybys en route but on this day they were  all empty,secluded and looked easy pickings for any car thieves if a car was left unattended for hours alone.I was happy to pay a little extra for security and peace of mind in a more populated car park.
The tourist season had yet to start and the Sir Walter Scott steamship was tied up getting an engine check and makeover ready for the spring crowds who would soon be descending.

This amazing ferry was launched here in 1899 after being floated up Loch Lomond from  its birthplace in Dumbarton then carried in sections overland by heavy horses to here. Its still a very popular trip and all the ferries based on the loch are packed solid with visitors during the peak summer months.
At the other end of the loch the small hamlet of Stronachlachar mainly exists as a place for the ferry to visit with its own pier,tearoom ,toilets,holiday cottages and large estate house.This was where I was heading now only by road.
Popular with families cycling as its quiet and fairly flat a private water board road snakes round the northern shores passing wooded islands and small bays with views of  high mountains behind.Ben Lomond dominates the scene,its  shaded northern corrie still covered in snow.

It was a brilliant day and I made good time,only a few tidy hill farms reminding me that this was not unpopulated wilderness.Considering tourists have been coming here for hundreds of years it is remarkably unspoiled,and indeed this was the birthplace of Scottish tourism when Sir Walter Scott set his "Lady of the Lake" here in 1810 inspired by  the still recent tales of   Rob Roy MacGregor (1671-1734).
Almost forgotten now this  poem was very famous in its day and had a  diverse influence on other works of the time.
One of the strangest is that a few lines in it describing the practice of a  raised burning cross sometimes used  as a beacon to alert the clans in times of war was then changed and reborn many years later  in the early silent film " The birth of a nation."  which in turn was then adopted by the Ku Klux Klan in America soon after!
How weird is that. A symbol taken from a romanticised poem  about Scotland considered far too unrealistic,sickly sweet and long winded for modern tastes.Also the highland cross was not of the Latin KKK type but  more probably the St Andrew,s Cross.The same type used in the flag of Scotland which has a claim to be the worlds oldest flag.
Anyway,The lands of the MacGregor`s stretched from here to the edge of  Perthshire covering many different glens but this was where  that  most famous of  clan sons grew up and lived.This present day abode still stands  right on the site where he was born and raised.

Probably a bit grander now than the building he would have known in his day.Both the MacGregors and the neighbouring MacFarlanes across Loch Lomond  in the deep glens around Arrochar had a reputation for being "troublesome".
In other words they were good at stealing cattle, fighting,drinking,quarreling and general mayhem and pillage.All the highland clans did the same of course,forming alliances and blood feuds as the mood took them but these two being nearer the fertile and farm rich lowlands were particularly good at it.They seemed to have had some kind of understanding with each other if only respect for each clans fighting abilities.
 Both clans shared a common graveyard on Inchcailloch on Loch Lomond where the clan chiefs were buried on separate sides of this walled enclosure.Its still very beautiful today and a visit there then a walk round this wooded island is a fantastic day out (ferry or boat hire from Balmaha) as is the nearby island of Inchmurrin.(ferry from Arden area).They also both fought in the Wars of Independance against the English Intruders.
In turbulent times its not always a good idea to be so feared and dreaded by your neighbours however.Neighbouring lands used to pray for cloudy skies as the full moon was known as MacFarlane,s Lantern.A time when  cattle raids and killings usually peaked. For this and other perceived crimes both clans were  hunted , and executed relentlessly over many decades,earning the MacGregors the title "children of the mist "when they were driven into the higher hills by the invading government armies of the day, aided no doubt by other rival clans and powerful landowners.This time around it was not an advantage to be so close to the lowlands as it made them easier to reach.It was even an offence to bear the name MacGregor during this period and the surviving MacFarlanes ended up escaping to Ireland then America. Rob Roy MacGregor lived to a fair age for the times though and died peacefully in his house at nearby Balquidder.There is now a long distance path in his name The Rob Roy Way passing through former clan territory he would have known well as it  runs  from Drymen to Pitlochry.

It was quiet and peaceful now though  in this glen  and a terrific morning.As you go round the far end of the Loch trees fade out ,the ring of  mountains close in and on a dull day it would look grey and forbidding.So thought Dorothy Wordsworth anyway when she visited with brother William noting that this end  resembled a bleak version of Ullswater.Must have just been the weather that day as It was magical enough on my trip.

Around here an army of toads crawled all over the road in full breeding frenzy....

.....along with cute little wriggling caterpillars.I tried to look these up a minute ago without success.Anybody know what moth or butterfly they turn into?

Unfortunately even on a quiet road like this one soft bodies and traffic don't mix well.It was obvious a few cars had passed.Hope this one had a happy time with a partner before this sudden  demise.

Come to think of it I looked something like this after my most painful, face first road smash.Unlike this poor wee croaker I survived to dent the ground again.No wonder I like cycling on sand! Forth the gallant  multi tarmac smacker!
I had lunch at the Hamlet of Stronachlahar where the ferry calls in.The public road starts from here, the still quiet B829 which runs past Loch Chon and Loch Ard to Aberfoyle.I always look foreword to this section as its a long easy downhill where you can sit and admire the views without effort.

Large flocks of Canada geese honked and munched grass in the flat green meadows around Loch Ard.

They are very vocal birds and I remember getting chased here by a pair paddling furiously after me for a considerable distance during the mating season.Must have been near a hidden nest.This is also a great loch to explore in a kayak with a slow twisting river section,deep clear pools and wooded islands with a surprise on both.

The lower road around Loch Ard can be busy as its well populated,full of holiday apartments ,large houses and second homes.Still scenic though but busy with cars if cycling.
Aberfoyle is soon reached where hotels, pubs,shops and meals may be had for those inclined.I pressed on though keeping my money rationed  for other trips.
The Dukes pass lay ahead- the biggest climb of the route.Whatever way you climb this its a brute.I normally  just walk up the road to the top pushing bike to save the legs but this time due to heavy traffic I took the safe route on tracks  through Queen Elizabeth forest park.I`m not a big fan of conifer forests and found the track up tedious ,long and boring with zilch views but it did have a few points of interest.
Some nice  small waterfalls,and this  sculpture grove of polished metal figures that almost disappear when viewed from certain angles due to them reflecting the surroundings.Maybe inspired by the children of the mist stories?Very  unusual project.

The last highlight was seeing the treetop go ape course getting a pre opening safety check. They were going to erect one of these in Pollok park in Glasgow but it is better out here where folk wanting solitude on their walks can more easily escape the shouts of excited children draining their parents pockets.Good fun but its not cheap!When you see the level of maintanence involved thats no surprise.Years ago children just climbed trees the normal way for adventure.Now ,somehow, unless its safe,regulated and supervised ( and costs  money) its not seen as an exciting thing to do by children and parents alike.

Arrived back at the car pretty knackered on what was an unseasonably warm day.A fantastic trip around a great area.

As a wee history footnote.... after the great  highland clearances and the dismantling of the entire clan system ,replacing people with sheep, a huge number of the dispossessed driven out of their homes and lands both here but also in the Scottish lowlands and Ireland emigrated to America where they came in very useful as a resilient buffer zone between the" troublesome"Native Americans (Indians) and the more peace orientated settlers in the flat fertile valleys and plains.All along the great Appalachian mountain chain  of the Southern  United States these old world  dispossessed fought the new world dispossessed for control of the wooded hollows and valley foothills.Ironic or what!
Eventually,after many hard years they began to prosper and flourish  (admittedly at the expense of the even more  marginalized  Indians),bringing their music ,clan values ,traditions and whisky stills with them.Clan and kin still mattered.
For a while all was good........


Then the American civil war happened and it was all back to normal again..Fighting ,killing stealing cattle etc :o)
Ah well ...they say a change is as good as a rest!