Sunday, 12 December 2021

Falls of Clyde. New Lanark. Two Seasons. Christmas and Summer.

                                           ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.

Recently I found an old set of photo folders I thought I'd lost and while I was looking through them all, taken between five to ten years ago now, two things were apparent. I was younger and more adventurous then.... still in my frisky 50s.   And I got around a lot more.

So without further ado here they are.  

Corra Linn Falls. Not the highest waterfall in the British Isles but reputedly the largest for sheer volume of water in spate. (Note the people on the right hand side of the gorge giving it some scale.) The constant roar, spray, and vibration close up is very impressive.

It's actually four different waterfalls or Linns on the River Clyde where it travels down through a steep wooded gorge. This is Bonnington Linn in summer conditions with full flow levels allowed.


Winter version.  Normally the flow nowadays is reduced to a trickle over the falls as it is diverted away to a power station and the National Grid but on certain days they let it pour over full force. In the late 1700s and throughout the 1800s loads of famous artists, romantic poets, politicians, the great and the good, made their way here, even from far off London, as in the days before safe continental and world travel, sightseeing and travelling in a newly tamed Scotland, after the massacre at Culloden in 1746 which crushed the clans, was a big draw. This in its own way was Scotland's Niagara Falls and people wanted to see it.

Another view of Corra Linn from higher up in full spate conditions.

An icy boardwalk standoff between two dogs.

A closer look. Note visitors. This right hand look out point is not easy to get to however from New Lanark. A circular trail runs from New Lanark for around a km to the Corra Linn waterfall where I took these photos. This is as far as most tourists get. The trail/path continues further from here, passing several lesser waterfalls like Bonnington Linn and eventually reaches a bridge across the river leading to the opposite bank. Very few people do the full circuit of the gorge by continuing down the other side of the river, past several lookout points, past New Lanark, now unreachable across the water, until they end up at Clydesholm Bridge downstream where they can cross again. From here you can either follow the main A 72 road uphill or continue more pleasantly, and flatter, along the riverbank on good trails to take you back to New Lanark again. The full circuit is a good 4 to 5 hours duration. I've only walked it a couple of times and I'm always really glad to see the car at the end of it. A good full circuit on reasonable paths but a long one.

 Years ago I picked a day in winter after a big freeze, around minus 10 below for over a week yet not much snow- just a severe penetrating frost, even during the day. So I thought the gorge at New Lanark would be good for icicles... and I was proved right.

Loads of icicles on show. Hard to access or get up close to them.

Luckily I had crampons and an ice axe with me so I was able to to climb up this stone staircase of sloping terraces of rock, seen here, and ascend the middle of the river that way on spiky paws as it was reduced to a trickle.

 An ice cave you could enter... A Frozen world. No Elsa or Anna sitting inside though, just a dead blackbird.

 At the top of the Corra Linn waterfall looking into the deep plunge pool. No doubt about it....I was far more nimble and adventurous ten years ago. I would never dream of attempting this route now. Far too dangerous. No wild swimming for me!

 Showing the difference with more water in the river. In my rock climbing days, in summer, I've climbed up waterfalls similar to this one near the edge as several Classic Rock gully routes have them included. Not pleasant and shockingly cold and powerful, even with full waterproofs on. Me no like Clachaig Gully or The Chasm for that reason. At some point in them you have to climb up inside several waterfalls pouring down on you, usually collected from melting house sized snow blocks high above, while still looking for easy to miss hand and foot holds on moss covered,  dripping wet, vertical walls. An acquired taste in rock climbing I failed to appreciate.

 A much milder December day.

 Going back to the frozen minus -12 day I timed it just right, returning to New Lanark for dusk and the light fading...

...again around Christmas time as you can see.

 And had a prowl through these long rows of former cotton mill buildings, some of them now lived in by residents and others open for visitor attractions and period displays. An interior stone lined lade diverted water power to run several of these giant wheels, seen here, providing a cheap constant energy source in the early days, hence the location choice and pioneering self contained workforce who had better conditions than most mills of that time with is own school, time off for children to get educated, a well stocked shop, and more enlightened work practices for adults. A big draw for visitors, along with the four falls walk beside it.

Summer view.

The descent path down. A large car park exists at the top of the gorge and visitors normally park high then walk down unless you phone first and get permission to park down in the village itself if you have a valid reason to do so. I used to drive down, drop my elderly parents off at the bottom then drive back up and park up high, walking down myself to explore, then, when it was time to leave, I'd run up, collect the car, and pick them up again down here as this saved them a steep walk uphill. The village is flat once you get down here and anyone infirm could probably park below. Might be better to phone in advance though. No need if you are just dropping people off below then parking high up.

 It does look a magical place, nestling snug in its glen.... even at minus 12 below.

 Then a long slow drive back in the darkness on icy roads to my own district.

 Anniesland Tower here in Glasgow.

 And a cracking tinfoil treat of a meal, done in the oven, sealed up and steamed for 35 mins above 200. Chicken, sprouts, carrots, sliced spuds, cherry tomatoes, onion, salt and black pepper, a quarter teacup of water for extra moisture to keep it from drying out too much . Them were the good old days alright! Happy times!























6 comments:

Carol said...

That meal looks pretty nice (apart from the chicken of course).

Skipton is a former cotton town and, of course, the whole of the Bradford/West Yorkshire area had plenty of woollen mills - Skipton had those too - so that village looks like our area. I think what you call a lade we call a leat.

Those are very interesting photos and I particularly like the frozen pine needles shot. And that waterfall does look like Niagara falls - you wonder how the island with trees stays put with that force of water each side - must be a firm rocky base. It looked interesting to climb up the frozen waterfall but I have to say I have a fear of slippery surfaces, especially ice - I blame breaking so many bones on ice for that!

I must take Richard and try to get a look at those waterfalls sometime...

blueskyscotland said...

Hi Carol,
Better to check if it's a day/weekend with full flow and a period of heavy rain just ended going over the falls as otherwise it's not that impressive. The visitor tour around New Lanark is good though with the all inclusive ticket gaining you access to all the mills and exhibits. Some you walk through seeing mill life but one you glide through in chairs suspended several feet off the ground in semi darkness with a little girl hologram telling you the history of the mills. You may have that kind of thing in Yorkshire mills though, closer to hand.

Anabel Marsh said...

A favourite place. Great photos, especially the icicle ones.

blueskyscotland said...

Yes, it's been several years since I've visited New Lanark and around ten years since the Christmas -12 below shots.

Andy said...

It was only a few years ago that I realised the Clyde had waterfalls and impressive ones at that. Scrambling about in gorges is something I still do today but not in winter. Had a go at proper water ice climbing once but never again. Scared the crap out of me and it was cold and wet!

blueskyscotland said...

Same here considering they were once UK wide famous. With the restricted flow most of the year they are no longer such a prominent tourist draw although New Lanark is, being a World Heritage Site. I bet if you asked even most Scottish folk living today in the Central Belt where the UK's largest waterfall is they would not name the River Clyde.