Saturday, 27 September 2025

A Return To Edinburgh Part 2. St James Quarter. W Hotel. Calton Hill. Arthur's Seat. A Gallery.

                                                 ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.


Balmoral Hotel. Edinburgh. On the same day that Alan and I visited Surgeons Hall Museums mentioned in the last post and he had to get home early on the city to city bus he also persuaded me to stay on later. I was glad that he did as after several heavy rain showers in the morning it turned into a lovely sunny afternoon and evening. Also, after an almost three hour long trip and two different buses to get here and an almost six hour round trip for the day it made perfect sense to get the most out of it that I could. You would not think that two cities just 40 miles apart would take an hour and a half approx but traffic congestion and roadworks often slow it down to that so I usually take a good book along to pass the time.



As I've been to most places in Edinburgh I was keen to visit anything that was new in the five years since my last visit. The W hotel, above, was one. This is right beside the St James Quarter, a shopping mall that used to be called the St James Centre, built in the 1970s, but has recently had a one billion pound makeover. It's right next to the Edinburgh bus station where the 900 Glasgow bus pulls in so after saying goodbye to Alan I made a beeline straight for it. 


St James Quarter. Most shopping centres hold no attraction for me. I get all my clothes, shoes, boots, dvd's and books at a fraction of the price from charity shops. But I do have natural curiosity to see how they are built inside and as this one has five or six different levels I made straight for the roof in this one, soaring up the various escalators with glee. Although I don't climb many mountains anymore I still enjoy ascending towards the heavens, especially if it's as easy as this. Shopping centres also have toilets in them but on this occasion that wasn't required as both Glasgow and Edinburgh bus stations have toilets in them and also the city to city buses. An important requirement when you get older. Always know where the toilets are in built up urban areas.


The skylight roof was also an attraction but as I found when I got up to it this only covered the shopping arcade and the upper level was open to the sky.


Which allowed tree planting as they had real light and natural rainfall. Not much foot traffic up this high, just a hotel and a rooftop bar.


Calton Hill, where I was headed next, from the roof of the St James Quarter. I was already about five levels up at this point, the end of public access but it continues upward privately for several more floors. I found this strange as that makes 7 or 8 levels in total yet the adjacent spiral of the W hotel soars high above The St James Quarter by another 5 loops seen from a distance. Yet it doesn't look that tall standing directly underneath it.



 A quirk of Edinburgh's street layout perhaps where buildings often rise up the slopes of ancient worn down volcanic bedrock. Which does give the city its unique architecture and skyline views with some buildings on steep slopes rising 11 or 12 levels high... and more built completely underground.


The Romance of old Edinburgh Streets. The back end of the Royal Mile leading up to Edinburgh Castle. And under all this heavy stonework yet more completely subterranean levels beneath.  Interesting link here.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_King%27s_Close    

If you visit as a family group several of Edinburgh's paid attractions on the same day it can add up to several hundreds pounds. Luckily I visited most of them decades ago when money seemed to spread further than it does today. Mary Kings Close 2025 Approx price. £24 Adult. Online booking recommended during summer. Edinburgh Castle £20 Adult. Add in 2 adults plus children and it's not long mounting up although you can get family tickets. Glasgow can be a much cheaper city to visit as most of its public building attractions are free. ( suggested donations only.)


But you do not have spectacular quirks like this. The W hotel. It's supposed to be a ribbon but the spiral shape, an avant- garde flourish surrounded by classic period architecture, like the nearby Balmoral Hotel, has attracted some critical comments like the 'Walnut Whip' ( not had one of those for years.) or the 'Golden Turd.' ( not as politely phrased as that either.)


Other public buildings are free to enter so it pays to look around and pick your venues. There's plenty to choose from in Edinburgh.


Calton Hill came next which has great views over the city. Taking this photo I did think if this canon still worked and was swung in the right direction the W hotel's critics could alter the Edinburgh skyline back to its former traditional glory fairly fast.


This folly gives Edinburgh it's other title 'Athens of the North.' Unless you are agile it's not that easy to climb onto it with a high first step and an awkward mantelshelf onto smooth flat surfaces. Unless you have someone to pull or push you up it can be an unexpectedly difficult challenge... and very embarrassing if you fail repeatedly....yet everyone tries. As it looks very easy at first glance. This was taken years ago. And even when you are on top the irony is.... there's not much to see that's different from a ground view.


And this was my current visit. I doubt I'd get up it myself now without embarrassing myself severely with Grandad stiffness of limbs so didn't even attempt it. I've been up it before anyway. It's a monkey thing. You are compelled to do it or attempt it. Basic instinctive behaviour. Especially if other monkey types have made it up there first.


Instead I had lunch on this bench with a view of Arthur's Seat and a quiet spot on the hill, sharing my home prepared sandwiches with two magpies and a jackdaw.


I would be heading there next and could already see loads of  tourists on the summit.


After lunch though I indulged in one of my favourite pastimes... no, not that... too many people around... examining city views from a high point to see if any new buildings had appeared in the last five years.


A tightly packed Edinburgh and The Pentland Hills beyond with the white mats of the dry ski slope visible.

Another view from Calton Hill.


It was then I noticed a UK government building with several cows tethered on the grass roof, presumably to keep the grass short like living lawnmowers. Another green initiative presumably. Grass roofs are a new growing trend worldwide so expect to see more cattle herds placed on rooftops.  Personally I thought this was rather cruel and they should have used goats instead as there didn't look to be any easy way off for them. But such is life. Many humans have it far worse, even in 2025. No one cares as much about them though. 


Sunshine and dark clouds over Leith and Leith docks. This view was an inspiration for future trips.


Newhaven District and Platinum Point. Another inspiration.


St James Quarter and York Place.


From there I walked over Salisbury Crags but missed out the summit of Arthur's Seat as time was getting on. I ended up in Princes Street Gardens heading for my bus back home. By this time I was feeling tired and had done enough for one day with a 3 hour bus journey back on two different buses still to come. And more walking between them.


A lovely sunny evening though in Edinburgh. Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument.

 
Buchanan Bus Station. Glasgow. The loving couple. I was so stiff and knackered after my 6 hour round bus trip and walking adventures that I shuffled past here like a zombie but I soon got my rhythm back as I headed for my last bus of the day. 7:00am rise and back in the house for 9:00pm. An enjoyable day. So enjoyable and thrilling I did it all again a few days later.
So more Edinburgh posts to come. It's a wonderful city.

Saturday, 20 September 2025

A Return to Edinburgh. Part One. Surgeons Hall Museums. University of Edinburgh.

                                                   ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.


A return to Edinburgh after 5 years. It was Alan's suggestion as he wanted to visit the Surgeons Hall museums. I've always liked visiting Edinburgh but for a variety of reasons it's been 5 years since my previous visit. Covid lockdowns, minor health issues, a long list of interesting places to visit in Edinburgh already ticked off.... and an almost 3 hour bus journey to get there and another 3 hour one back the same day... all played a part. Glasgow's Buchanan Bus Station destination board above.


Coming from different districts on the outskirts I'd arranged to meet Alan here at Buchanan Bus Station around 10:30am. Traveling clock above. I was slightly concerned that in the 5 year interval pre-booking bus journeys online would be the norm now as that was already creeping in years ago but thankfully you can still turn up on the day without a ticket and get a seat, especially if low in numbers. ie 2 people. Under an hour to get to here by bus from the city outskirts and around another hour and a half to Edinburgh, depending on traffic. 30 mins to one hour onward to Leith, (No 16 bus York Place. Might be changed now. 10 and 11 bus stop.) Portobello, Musselburgh or Seaton Sands, (No 26 bus. Princes Street.) Having caught covid two weeks ago from one lone short bus journey to my local retail park that was also a possibility on a busy city to city bus as the latest variant of covid is spreading UK wide this autumn apparently. But I thought that having already had it... 4 times in 5 years now... I would be fairly immune to its worst effects.


Passing the stylish and grand Donaldson's National School for the Deaf on the Edinburgh bus. Founded mid 1800s and opened by Queen Victoria. This building is now upmarket flats apparently as the deaf school moved to more modern updated facilities in Linlithgow over a decade ago.


Although Edinburgh is always a great city to visit at any time of year it did look slightly diminished on this occasion, Especially for a keen photographer like myself. North Bridge, seen above, was covered in scaffolding as was the ornate and iconic late 1800s Jenners department store on Princes Street which is getting remodelled into a hotel. On the plus side the old 1970s St James Centre, which I remember well, next to the main bus station, which was a building site on all previous visits, is now finished and rebranded into St James Quarter. 


What we were both here to see however was the Surgeons Hall Museums which is on Nicolson Street just up from North Bridge. £10 entry Adult. £6 concessions. No photography allowed inside. Both museums showed the history of medicine and surgical advances since the 1800s and some of it was pretty full on. Serious injuries, extreme abnormal growths and treatments were all covered. It was interesting and Alan really enjoyed it but one hour in it was enough for me. I waited outside in the garden area where you could take photographs.


Flower border getting plenty of rain.


Flagstone detail.


Fish mural across the street.


Museum outdoor sculpture and entrance. I also had a walk around the local neighbourhood and an hour later Alan emerged having examined everything to his satisfaction.


Not far away on the opposite side of Nicolson Street the entrance gate to the University of Edinburgh invited us in for another exhibition of sculptures and artworks.

This is the inner courtyard and as you can see it was a day of bright sunshine and heavy downpours.

On the way back we took in some more of the classic Edinburgh highlights. I liked the blend here of old and new buildings matching together. Same colour.


Not too sure about this one though. The classic early 1900s North British Station Hotel ( now The Balmoral Hotel) on the right and the very modern bronze spiral of the W hotel on the left. I have a triple  album cover 'Decade' by Neil Young featuring this 1902 built hotel when he stayed here while touring as a young singer/songwriter and J.K. Rowling famously finished her Harry Potter Series here.


And while we are on that subject not for the first time I started to wonder if the author of those well known books took direct inspiration from the art work and buildings surrounding her in Edinburgh when she started out. For instance ... anyone observant will notice snake and rod (or staff ) symbols all over Edinburgh as an ancient symbol for medicine or healing. i.e. potions, snakes. wands.


And on the way back to the bus station walking through the Edinburgh University district Potterrow and Candlemaker Row presumably predate the Harry Potter books by centuries. As does the general concept of educational reward above. Sorting hat perhaps? 
And lastly Dumbiedykes is a real nearby local district of old Edinburgh as well... Professor Dumbledore not that far away from that name...all just pure coincidence?


As there's so much to see in Edinburgh we went back by a different route but in the city district it is almost impossible to take a people free photograph due to the sheer number of tourists milling around. I did try my best though to get classic views  of the city without people in them.   

The mound area from the National Gallery.


The Balmoral Hotel clock tower, Princes Street and the triple black spires of St Mary's Cathedral in Palmerston Place which I visited on a previous walk. 


Edinburgh trams. The clang clang of which is a continuous sound around parts of the city. Just as well as they would creep up on you silently without that bell ringing every few minutes.  


Back at the bus station which is located just behind Princes Street next to York Place and St James Quarter Alan and I parted company. He had to get the bus back to Glasgow early but as it was turning into a lovely sunny evening I stayed on in Edinburgh to continue walking. I eventually got back to Glasgow around 9:00pm... hand in hand with darkness arriving over the city. And a 7:00am start at sunrise so a long day. But it was worth it.... 




Calton Hill .....to be continued in part two. 

Over 50 classic old paintings in a slideshow from all over Europe and Scandinavia. 98 %  of which I've never seen before. An outstanding landscape gallery from the golden age of oils. Enjoy.

Saturday, 13 September 2025

Auchenstarry to Colzium Lennox Estate. Kilsyth.

                                                   ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN. 


A walk from July. We parked at Auchenstarry Quarry again, seen above, and walked from there past Barr to Woodend along a green path on the southern edge of Kilsyth. At Woodend , using the Glasgow OS Landranger map sheet 64, a path ran north through the woods in the direction of Colzium Lennox Estate. (We could have parked there instead but that would mean missing out these extra paths, neither of which we had done before.)


 We being Alan and I. Although it does not look it from the map both these paths are pleasant country tracks with few signs visible of  Kilsyth's urban sprawl.


 A painted stone seal in a nearby farm/building yard.


 The horse meadows and Croy Hill from the country track.

 

A view of Bar Hill on The Antonine Way and the John Muir Way just before we turned inland through the woods.


 


This is the view we had on the open hillside heading north to Colzium Lennox Estate. At this point several paths go in different directions but we just kept heading north and apart from a minor wrong turn into a new housing estate we found the right trail.

 

Several new housing estates have sprung up over the years here but this was the one we headed for, still travelling north. A lane led rightwards at the edge of this estate and that in turn gave us access to Colzium Lennox Estate, which is a local park for the good folk of Kilsyth.


 


As I say you can drive and park here in this estate but that would have meant missing out interesting paths we'd never walked before.


 It's a lovely park I have been to before, years ago, with the car park and pond, seen above.


 This sign explains what's available.


 The estate grounds with good views and wide range of tree types. Looking down the slope.


 Looking up the slope.


 A famous battle took place near here. This is the battle commemoration stone.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kilsyth 


 We also had a walk around the walled garden in the estate. It must be 15 or so years since I explored here and it looked different, the various trees and shrubs in the garden gaining in height 10 to 20 feet taller. It was a miniature garden the last time by comparison.


 Yellow glory.


 Unusual plants.


 We came back via the Mill Girls walk, which is the traditional path through the park from Banton Mill to Kilsyth that the workers used in a previous heavy industry era. This took us out onto the busy A803 main road and a pavement through the town but it also held rewards in the town maps we stopped at to examine.


 One showed the Kelvin Valley path network and a lot of routes not immediately apparent from the OS map or easily available from searching online.

 

The other was a Kilsyth town walk we would never have thought of doing. It's the same with any new area visited. Sometimes you really have to go there to find out all that's available. Several new walks suggested themselves on these info boards.

 


We walked back through Kilsyth's main shopping street, pedestrianized and pleasant, with many local independent shops.


 As small town shopping streets go we were both impressed by this one which had retained its original market town character, certainly to outsider eyes like ours.


A shop mural on the B802 back to Auchenstarry Quarry, again on a good pavement.


The main house. Colzium Lennox Estate.


The tranquil beauty of Auchenstarry Quarry.

And another scenic gem. This is probably the nicest 5 minute video you will ever see on You Tube. Child and adult friendly and a complete joy to watch. Please don't miss it. What any parent may wish, understandably, for their children.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3u8stDTwZY&list=RDt3u8stDTwZY&start_radio=1