ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.
Although I fancied climbing Arthur's Seat again I didn't want to go up the normal tourist route from Holyrood Palace with the massed crowds so instead I jumped on a bus that would take me round to Duddingston Village. Arthur's Seat from the bus window, above. Willowbrae District. This dropped me off at Duddingston Road West which I walked along to reach the historic village of Duddingston. This village is as old as Edinburgh itself with one of the oldest pubs in Scotland, an old kirk and a pleasant, quiet, sleepy village atmosphere. The last time I was in Duddingston was 10 years ago when I first discovered Dr Neil's Secret Garden. This occurred in May so the place was alive with wonderful spring flowers, wildlife ( bees, butterflies, waterfowl and rabbits, all breeding like crazy and thriving right in front of me) Nothing could top that.
So seeing Dr Neil's Garden this time, in mid October, ( located just behind Duddingston kirk and Manse) was a let down, but only because it was the very end of a long dry summer and autumn with not much left flowering. (It was also not the complete surprise it was the first time around.) It is a small garden, created by two doctors, situated between the Kirk and Duddingston Loch. The original pond seen here, looks covered in some sort of plant/ algae/ material which can't be healthy for anything under it if it's still there in spring. No sunlight getting in. I didn't think to bend down to feel it though to see if it was a natural occurance.
This photo from the hillside shows Duddingston Loch, the kirk, and the garden which starts from the obvious stone wall jutting out then runs left towards the start of the loch. Travelling this way up you pass several small scenic lochs in Holyrood Park and several other hill tops on the way to the main summit, as there's far more to Holyrood Park than just the normal A to B tourist track. Whinny Hill in its own right is another fine summit within this park, and much quieter.
Duddingston Village info sign.
Duddingston Village.
Dr Neil's Garden. Compared to seeing it in Spring when it was a riot of different colours this time it was fairly subdued. A few autumn colours but not outstanding in any way.
It was the time of year when garden maintenance was going on instead with what looked like two new ponds going in. If you want to see this garden at it's best then spring, (early May to July) is the best time to visit.
In Dr Neil's garden. When I was last here, 10 years ago, it looked like this garden would have to close to the public due to funding concerns but it is still here and open. Worth a visit if in Duddingston.
Sheep Heid Inn. Duddingston Village, one of Scotland's oldest pubs.
But the main reason I was here was to climb Arthur's Seat so I soon entered the gates of Holyrood Park, seen above, and Crow Hill/ Nether Hill/ Lion's Haunch area above the village.
A corner of Duddingston Loch, once a famous curling pond in hard winters but now an important bird reserve.
I was soon halfway up this first hill having my lunch on a small cliff edge above the loch for the views. This part didn't disappoint. Like all the hills in Edinburgh, due to the steady tourist numbers, a local population of crows and jackdaws call each hill their own resident food base and I was happy to share my lunch, even bringing a spare boiled egg and extra cheese along for them. You are never alone with nature, or so I've found. My own religion.
What looks like Craigmillar/ Prestonfield Districts beyond Duddingston Loch.
A lush green oasis but unfortunately, due to central Scotland's warmer, drier climate these days wildfires, mainly caused by careless humans... or deliberate acts, can spring up anywhere and a large section of slope above the village had been burned to ash. During the last few years Scotland has had numerous wild fires...including millions of pounds of woodland lost in the Highlands, usually caused by human activity of some kind, BBQs, cigarettes, camp fires etc.
You can see what looks like fire damage in this one. If I lived here or in Edinburgh in general I might be upset as it will probably take years for the burnt gorse to recover and the bare slope is more susceptible to erosion during heavy rain and storms but for me it was just another point of interest on the walk as I examined the black remains of stumps. 10 years since my last visit here so I might not be back again to see if it recovers.... and how fast or slow the regrowth happens... if at all.
I didn't spoil my day as there's plenty left in the park that didn't burn. like here. Dunsapie Loch and hill.
Eventually I reached Arthur's Seat, the summit being a shark's fin of hard volcanic rock, an easy scramble for the last 30 feet to the white trig. The other side from this side is a sheer cliff.
As seen here from the other side. They seem to be working on the infamous zig zags at the moment, an awkward steep route of stone steps that is a knee destroyer and in full winter conditions under snow and ice very tricky. This was where I was cutting steps with my ice axe and had crampons on years ago as a fall here onto hard stone blocks would be serious. Luckily it was closed off so I took the diagonal path running from left to right in this photo, which is a much easier descent.
This is it here. Much better route than straight down the zig zags.
But before I did that I took this photo of tourists admiring Edinburgh from the main path. A lot of tourists are happy to go up and down this main path but I always combine Arthur's Seat with the cliffs of Salisbury Crags as that's where the real thrill and photographic opportunities lie.
They start off quite low in the rock climbing quarry. Years ago you could rock climb here, not sure about now though.
Although it certainly looked like some form of rock climbing or abseiling was going on.
As you ascend this spectacular line of vertical cliffs getting higher and higher above the city streets it is always with a rush of adrenalin. Not only because you are panting with the effort by this time but one wrong footstep, in mist, snow, ice, driving rain or darkness will be your last step, falling hundreds of feet below.
It has certainly not lost any of its power to impress. The 'Radical Road,' the historic path under the cliffs, seen here below, has been closed since 2018 due to stone fall but it may reopen again next year, all going well.
Another view of old, tightly packed central Edinburgh.
The highest point of the line of cliffs on Salisbury Crags and a seat with a view. Probably the best view in the Central Belt of Scotland. Normally I avoid crowds on mountains but I like little figures in the distance to give the landscape some scale, as here. Ah, the confidence of youth. I remember it well. Sadly, I've not got the bottle to do that now right on the edge, my head for heights diminishing since my mountaineering and rock climbing past, decades ago.
But I still love being up here.
High above the city of Edinburgh from the cliff edge. Fear inducing to get a good photograph as this view of the city was through the camera lens and not what the edge of the cliff or my trembling toes were doing meantime. Hopefully rooted to one spot. You do feel like a god, or goddess, looking down on frail humanity from Mount Olympus.
The blue and white flats of Dumbiedykes District, Calton Hill and Princes Street area.
An Edinburgh tour bus, Dynamic Earth,(white dome) and Holyrood Palace from the cliff edge.
Calton Hill.
The ruin of St Anthony's Chapel and St Margaret's Loch. Still Holyrood Park.
The Scottish Parliament building in centre of photo.
Holyrood Palace and grounds.
A clearer view of the closed for now zig zags path and the minor road around Arthur's Seat/Holyrood Park. I've had the pleasure of cycling round it on my bike several times years ago and that is also a big thrill. Dozens of happy memories here. Another good day in Edinburgh and another city hill bagged.
