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As I haven't cycled along the Forth and Clyde Canal then across the Erskine Bridge for a while, and it's one of my favourite bike rides, I picked a beautiful day during our Indian Autumn in October to reacquaint myself with its box of treasures. As you can see here, the canal at Clydebank was looking at its finest, with great autumn reflections in the still morning air. It is a beautiful and very varied cycle run which is why I like it and included it in my Firth of Clyde guide book.
Forth and Clyde Canal colours.
Swan reflections.
The Beardmore Sculpture denoting Clydebank, the River Clyde, and its strong links to Steel and Shipbuilding. A large percentage of the world's ships were built along the Clyde during the golden years of heavy industry.
Radnor Flats, built after the bombing of Clydebank during the Second World War when large parts of the town were destroyed by German planes targeting the shipyards and other nearby factories.
A Dutch plane, only dropping passengers these days at the nearby Glasgow airport, which is actually beside Paisley, another post industrial town close to the River Clyde.
Erskine Bridge. A view through the suicide barrier of the Forth and Clyde canal. Suicide is the No 1 cause of death in young Scottish men these days and has been for decades, hence the high barriers which do restrict views. I have to admit it does save folk from using this particular method of easily ending themselves but I did like the open plan low railing of old as the new restrictions do feel like cycling into a high level maximum security prison for bikes and walkers.
Photographers now have to be very ingenious indeed to get an unrestricted shot without mesh or railings getting in the way but what really saves a lot of people from depression and despair is having an all consuming passion that is highly addictive but healthy. Unfortunately, too many start out at a young age with self destructive addictions or learned attitudes to life that spiral out of control as they get older. I do speak from personal experience here. It's never too late to change your life around however and it doesn't cost anything, only your free will, your motivation, and some imagination. Sometimes, the best method is simply to swap one powerful addiction for another less destructive :o)
An old abandoned Navy service dock in the foreground and Clydebank's blue Titan crane on the River Clyde behind.
Looking down the Clyde from Erskine Bridge with the old Erskine ferry slipway today. The nearest sandy beach to Glasgow. Great for a cycle trip destination along the Loch Lomond cycle-track. So much to do... a lifetime to do it in. Don't let circumstances grind you down.
The golf course from the bridge. Finding new opportunities and keeping motivated is what it's all about. I recently found out that if you have two clubs, an iron and a putter plus some golf balls you can get on the pitch and putt course for very little money so over the summer and autumn I took up pitch and putt and golf. A new interest. It can be an expensive game but it doesn't have to be.
A new passion. It's what life is all about. And in doing that I unexpectedly found a friend to share it.
Ah, the pleasures of the open road. The "newly created" Clyde Coastal Path runs from Milngavie near Glasgow via Clydebank to Wemyss Bay and is well worth a visit. It has always been there of course but it's now official, and so presumably "fashionable" for walkers. i.e. they put signage up on a track I've always used, walking or cycling. Luckily, pitch and putt in Glasgow's parks is out of fashion these days... which is great news as myself and "Trinley" stepped out on many of them for free...presumably to encourage other people to join us... all summer and autumn long. M.S of L :o) http://www.focrt.org/ccp/
Anyway, I eventually took her out to see the Angels and Mermaids at the edge of the land.
To introduce her to the Tower Lands over the water. Lapwing display overhead.
Like all females she was slightly jealous of my Greenock mermaids... and they of her. Utopia never lasts alas... not in the real world.
A tower and an angel.
Bindweed and fly. Simple and pure delights.
The Clyde Coastal Path from the air. Angel viewpoint..
The Bridge.
Sunset and A Knowledge of Angels.
My latest 4th book is now out on Kindle bookstore for £2:50. The Best of Blue Sky Scotland ( Adventures off the Beaten Track) by Bob Law. It does what is says on the cover. A collection of the best posts over the last 6 years of the blog concentrating on remote but spectacular Corbett trips, lesser known Scottish islands like Islay, Harris, Skye (away from the Cuillin Ridge) Jura, Rum, Eigg, Canna, Sanday, and the Isle of May: as well as a range of easy but exciting and varied day walks in the Central Belt, easily reached from Glasgow and Edinburgh.
With over 500 original colour photos and a lighthearted and sunny outlook it should make a good, at times humorous, armchair read or Christmas guidebook for anyone interested in the Scottish outdoors, well away from the usual places people normally visit. As a hardback coffee table book it would probably cost between £30 to £60 to bring out in large paper form as it must be one of the most elaborate, varied, and well illustrated books covering Scotland in one volume, away from the Munros.
First four posts free to read in here to give you a taste of what's on offer inside in one hopefully easy to read and quick to navigate collection. (thus correcting one of the main drawbacks of a weekly blog. Finding good back archives immediately.)
Direct link to book below. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Best-Blue-Sky-Scotland-Adventures-ebook/dp/B017Z6CSQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1447774269&sr=1-1&keywords=The+Best+of+blue+Sky+Scotland.+Bob+law
Why not surprise someone this Christmas with an unexpected gift? For £2:50 it's worth it for the photographs alone. Also includes several poems and stories between the various trips.
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Our last day, Sunday, down in the Lake District was another forecast of murky summits and showers over high ground but again we had a plan to avoid wet weather. On previous trips in the Lakes, looking at maps, we'd spotted the Cumbrian Coastal Way, a section of which travelled along the high sandstone cliffs of St Bees Head. This is also, incidentally, where Wainwright's multi day 'Coast to Coast Walk' across The Lake District and Northern England starts... or ends. It is also the only section of coastline on the west between Wales and Scotland to gain Heritage Coast status in England and always looked spectacular in any photos we had seen.
After travelling through the town of Whitehaven we arrived via a minor road at Sandwith and the small car park of Tarn Flatts Farm. Here we got talking to some rock climbers as there is a popular bouldering venue near here on the red sandstone cliffs. Our path took us down by the lighthouse to the edge of the sea then along the cliff in the direction of St Bees, a small pretty community on the coast with a sandy beach.
This is a popular spot for birdwatchers and I immediately spotted a hovering kestrel on the hunt for mice and voles.
Our team consisted of John, Gail, Sandra, Alex and myself. Mostly the path along the clifftops was fairly flat and grassy with not much in the way of cliff views, except in a few places where you could see the actual face, as here on this viewing platform.
Mostly shags or cormorants on the ledges here as the breeding season was over for another year. (Not too sure which one this is.No distinctive head crests on show if shags.)
Things started getting interesting on the steep descent down to Fleswick Bay Beach and we could descend to be level with the base of the cliffs. This was much more impressive.
A very atmospheric day as our feet crunched across the shingle made up of millions of tiny multi coloured pebbles, many beautifully crafted by nature, wind and wave into polished sparkling gems. It was a dry walk along the coast here but a raw strong wind whipped up the sea enough to make it dramatic and give us a taste of what it would be like in full storm conditions down here. The enclosed nature of the bay, sheltered but also hemmed in under high brooding cliffs gave this place a majestic but distinctly lonely feel as we were the only folk on it.
At the far end the tide was in and we could go no further on the slippery wet rocks but I think caves appear further round at the base of the cliffs. Low tide access only probably.
As it was a dramatic spot we stopped for lunch here, taking in the cawing and inquisitive jackdaws, my favourite corvids, on the cliffs above; the extensive views out to sea and the mysterious half buried metal structures on the beach, revealed as the tide started going out. Seemingly too large and heavy to be wreckage off a ship they might be the remains of something to do with an old sandstone quarry that existed here. As they look like the mechanical innards of something big, like a steam engine, each corroded lump weighing close to a ton or more, if they did come off a ship wreck there was no sigh of the vessel that carried them, unless that had been salvaged years ago and cut up as scrap metal.
The red sandstone here takes a number of forms and shapes, depending on how wind and wave have sculpted it. In this photo a white band looks to have been painted on with meticulous precision but is presumably completely natural. You can see similar white bands further up on the cliffs.
In other places the boulders looked like egg box cartons, full of little dimples filled with rain or seawater, each with a huddle of tiny pebbles inside, as if sheltering from the elements in these calm shallow pools.
Although bouldering is popular here we certainly didn't fancy climbing the full cliff face as sandstone is notorious for its lack of decent holds,spaced far apart, its sandy texture and vertical tendency. Usually the grades are high in sandstone climbing away from obvious easy crack lines. VS, HVS or above.
Writing on the wall. And for us also as it was time to go home. We took the coast road back through Whitehaven, Workington, St Helens and Maryport. Although this is still the Lake District it has a very different feel to it. Post industrial landscape and towns with little of the prosperity visible throughout the prettier heartland of Cumbria. In general the mass movement of Lakeland tourists never visit here, some houses are boarded up while others need attention. Many fine old public buildings still exist and cling on from a time when money flowed through them due to productive coal and steel works, fishing, and other heavy industry but that time has past, replaced in the main with low paid jobs. I actually enjoyed the drive and wanted to get out and explore each urban area fully but we were pressed for time, as usual. A coastal path and cycling track runs along this coast of long, flat desolate beaches and urban communities. It did have plenty of interest and stark beauty in the changing light and I would be perfectly happy cycling here on a good day. Not picture postcard beauty though. It reminded me strongly of many similar Scottish towns and no doubt large areas throughout England and Wales as well.
At one time, not that long ago, the wealth in the United Kingdom was spread more evenly than it is today. Now the main centre of real money is in London and the South East and a few other places, like Edinburgh where commerce, government infrastructure, and big business have a foothold. For the rest of the post industrial areas that can't attract tourists in numbers they appear to be in a long slow free fall. A recent report maintained that many areas of Scotland and the UK have actually been in recession for the last 40 years, not just the last 7. Many towns and cities throughout Britain have seen their population dwindle year on year while London has increased by two million since 1980. It doesn't take a genius to work out that poor people tend to stay in their own locality through lack of funds to go anywhere else and the ongoing austerity purge on the poorest in society will only serve to make deprived areas even more poverty stricken as they will have less money to spend in the district they live in. I get the impression with the conservatives though, after 45 years of watching them operate, that they would still ( allegedly) punish and demonize the poorest in our society, cut services, and flog off assets even if we had an abundance of spare money available as that's just what they do and what they have always done.
This link is from 2000... before the latest big business greed culture induced recession and well before the latest round of austerity cuts, although tellingly, a full ten years after the Thatcher era of similar cuts to the exact same things. Is the picture any different in 2015? Some events in life never change but I wish they would for the next generation ...or is this the best it gets forever? http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/659486.stm
When I first saw this video I couldn't believe it. I've seen other rock climbers making ascents of vertical cliffs without a rope attached but always in a calm, slow progression up the climb. This guy appears to have very little regard for his own life and it came as no surprise at all to learn he had died, albeit attached to a rope at the time. Even for the world's best... one slip or missed move and you die.
Here's another interesting short video that's worth a watch. Is this a hoax? If so it's a plausible one to any outsider, with a large following online and loads of different videos, especially given some of the other puzzling aspects of America that UK folk don't really understand, like its continuing determination to hang onto personal firearms, "for protection."
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Our second day down in the Lake District with the club opened with spectacular views over the Newlands Valley. Although we have climbed or walked nearly all the major peaks in the Lakes over the past 40 years most of us had never been in the Newlands Valley area, set in the heart of the Derwent Fells, just west of Borrowdale. We had booked a cracking climber's hut, which shall remain nameless, as we may want to book it again. I was very impressed with the Newlands Valley which was like the Lake District as a whole, only as a mini one valley version... i.e. it packed a great deal of impressive landscape into a very small area.
Beautifully shaped and coloured local hills right above the hut with an inviting horseshoe of Maiden Moor, High Spy, Dale Head, and Robinson around the 550 metre to 750 metre mark. Height is completely irrelevant surrounded by such geometric beauty however and we were all keen to bag the surrounding hills. This was Friday's view but it was going to get dark soon so too late to do anything.
Breakfast time in the hut, reading maps, guide books and papers. Unfortunately Saturday was a dreadful forecast of strong wind and rain most of the day... and Sunday was not much better. Like Elphaba in Gregory Maguire's Wicked I have a true hatred of getting wet in my free time outdoors. I don't mind it at work when I at least get paid to be out in the rain and gales but to me the saying "There is no such thing as bad weather only inappropriate clothing." is total bollocks dreamed up by the tourist industry. Surely most people prefer to get sunshine and dry conditions on a walk? I certainly do and the whole purpose of this blog is to show that you don't have to settle for anything less with a tiny bit of weather watching, the ability to change plans at the last minute and pure common sense. The UK is a great place to live weather wise, every weekend, if you follow the sun and work with nature to your own advantage.
We left the hut therefore on a woeful day. Alex and Craig were set on the round of the hills immediately above the hut; a fairly long day in miserable conditions. John and Gail were geocaching in the valley and myself and Sandra were tagging along to see how it played out. As I knew the weather forecast was dire all day I prayed for a sign like the folk of old on their creaky knees who believed in 'Signs and Wonders.'
An angel appeared just as I was getting wet. "Find Shelter." it whispered. Seek thy Sun."
"How.?" I asked. We were already committed to going up the round of hills with Alex and Craig but the constant increase of wind and rain for every step upwards meant we would not enjoy it one bit but to turn around was club cowardice of the highest order.
"I will send thee a 'Sign.' " the angel replied. "And a Wonder.' "
"Is that a banana in your hand? I asked, changing the subject.
"Even angels are allowed a lunch break." the angel replied, somewhat peeved. " It's in my contract. As I'm an angel it's a special banana of course."
"It would be." I answered profoundly.
High and behold! Just as we reached the point at the head of the pass where we would have to climb up the ridge to start the horseshoe of peaks the heel of Sandra's boot came off. I managed to tie it back on again with some material in my bag but it wouldn't be safe on steep or rough ground and might come off again.
"Damn. That's really bad luck." I sympathized.
"I know." she replied. " I was looking forward to a long tough day up there but maybe its a sign."
" It's a wonder it lasted as long as it did. " I answered. " I think we should turn back."
" Good idea."
Luckily, Sandra is not that keen on bagging peaks in driving rain either.
I broke the news to Alex. He seemed upset but agreed Craig and himself should carry on upwards into the lashing glory of the upper slopes for the mountaineering reputation of the club. The prize and lure of new summits, even if invisible under mist and clag, shouldn't and couldn't be denied.
I pointed to Sandra's boot.
"Would'a and could'a but sadly can't. All the mountaineering books say it's better to stay in pairs for safety. We shall have to go down."
I departed with a grin.
Myself and Sandra tagged along with John and Gail for a while geocaching then decided we would strike out alone down into the valley to explore the lower reaches.
Immediately my mood improved as we were now in sheltered climes,surrounded by deciduous woodland and out the rain storms. I started to enjoy myself again and the sun even made a belated appearance though I was pleased to see it continued raining at higher levels on the still invisible mountains.
More rainbows.
We could now explore the Newlands Valley properly, walking along the wooded tracks and country lanes in the direction of Little Town and Braithwaite. A lovely area.
Causey Pike, 637 metres. For some reason the dying bracken in the Lake District always looks more colourful than the Scottish variety.
A track in the Newlands Valley. A nice area for low or high level walks and Braithwaite has some smashing narrow streets and village charm. Another new place to discover.
Later on we ended up in Keswick after nightfall. This was still a busy and vibrant place and just had a great lively feeling to it. Unlike a lot of small Scottish towns after dark, there didn't seem to be any sign of gangs of local youths looking for trouble, the pubs were crowded but friendly and civilized, and the general atmosphere and mood of the place was upbeat and happy. We had an excellent chip supper, as usual in the Lakes, then sampled some pub life.
The Keswick Christmas decorations were hung over the main street but most hadn't been switched on yet, which was a pity as they looked good. Christmas time looked fun in Keswick. Yes, that is a giraffe under the purple lights.
We had to make do with a full moon for illumination as the weather had cleared up by now. Craig and Alex newly returned off the hill. " Bit grim for the first 3 hours." was Alex's opinion of the day, although they did get partial views later on. They looked very clean and well scrubbed by nature's servants of wind and rain.
I stopped to take a photo of an elaborate wedding cake in a window, a polar scene covered with small penguins and other assorted arctic wildlife that appealed to me.
"Why are you taking a photo of a Wedding Cake? "A puzzled, nae baffled, Alex inquired suspiciously. Anything considered "unmanly" is highly suspicious in any male dominated club.
"I like all art and beauty in this world but I embrace my darkness also."
They didn't get the significance of the quote. "You're weird. Let's hit the pub."
Now this was strange. Most of the pubs in Keswick were jam packed and most had a relay team of industrious young workers ferrying meals to every table. We tried standing at the bar and had various young ladies squeezing past us with plates overflowing with food or fellow drinkers bumping into us accidentally. I'd hate to work in a Lake District pub as it must be frantic 24/7. The only table left was this one. A single unit positioned in a corridor between the gents and ladies toilets and the busy kitchen. But to us it was peaceful. Despite a steady stream of tasty meals going past, males and females going in and out of doors, we didn't get bumped once and could hear our own conversation. Bliss.
" Why are you taking a photo of us in a corridor?" Alex grumbled. "Put it away man."
"I am a camera. " I replied cryptically, thinking of an old 1955 film title. " I like the unusual, the different, the bizarre." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Am_a_Camera_%28film%29
"Weird with a capital W." they agreed.
I remember seeing The Haunting, a Julie Harris film years ago based on The Haunting of Hill House and was very impressed by the strong brooding atmosphere created in that old black and white film. Sometimes it's the lesser known works that really shine rather than the blockbusters or they do the unsung groundwork for the blockbusters that go on to claim all the credit. A suddenly different Keswick in the rain at night seemed very European and "film noir."
Speaking of which this is a bus journey and night out from Kirkcaldy in Fife back to Burntisland. Some of the funniest ad lib's and off the cuff remarks I've witnessed have been on late night bus trips on the way back from the pub in the days when I used to go for night's out. Worth a watch. The camera settles down after a minute. Some swearing but funny. Gets better as it progresses.
