ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.
In the last post I said I was going to Partick but ended up at Anderston, walking back along the River Clyde Walkway to Partick. By the time I got to Partick it was approaching rush hour so I just went home ... saving Partick for another day. A week later I took the correct bus down to Partick getting off at the transport hub where the subway/bus station/train station all meet under the three giant full gable murals looking down on them. I've already posted photos of them but this is one between West Village and Yorkhill that I missed. It's over 1 km or 2 km as the crow flies from Partick bus station to the Riverside Museum, the Tall Ship, and the new swing bridge but you can get really soaked on that shelter-less walk if it's raining heavily, tourists turning up like drowned rats outside the museum doors, even with waterproofs on. I like to use Yorkhill Park to get there sometimes, a green leafy area that surrounds Yorkhill Hospital and brings you out at Kelvinhaugh Street next to the mural arches at SWG3. Slightly longer but more interesting.
It's not that big a park but it does have a nice green walkway running through it, seen above, and is a pleasant route down to the mural arches.
Kelvinhaugh Street. above.
I went up the back lane first, Eastvale Place, to see some of the murals I missed out the last time I was here. They do change from year to year.
Same building on a previous visit. Gone now. Last years model apparently. I liked that one with the nod to Cleopatra winning a bet with Mark Antony. A very early example of extreme extravagant wealth. Wonder if she got all her clothes and entertainment for free back in those days. Probably. Some things never change.
Angry guy.
I then crossed the elevated pedestrian bridge over the Clydeside Expressway to capture the railway arch murals from a distance. This is also the route to the Riverside Museum, hence the extra km distance difference.
Big pigeon and highland cow.
And this walkway leads you out to the Riverside Museum, The Tall Ship and Glasgow's new swing bridge, just opened last week.
The Riverside Museum, seen here, contains all forms of transport past to present and also an old period street plus some of Glasgow's original rolling stock from the subway.
And Glasgow's tall ship, the Glenlee, sits right beside it. Both of which are free entry to locals and tourists. ( Tall ship now around £5 entry since July 2024 I am informed. see comments.)
The new addition to the landscape is the swing bridge, which is pedestrian/ cycle only but opens to allow ships through if required. Not many large ships come up this far though but that option is available. A ferry used to run here up until the 1960s connecting Govan to Partick but disappeared when the modern Clyde Tunnel was built for vehicle traffic. Apparently this new bridge was almost £30 million and is one of the longest pedestrian bridges in Europe at over 370 feet long.
Just as well it wasn't built across here, at the other end of the Riverside Museum or it would be far too short. Crowne Plaza Hotel. BBC Scotland HQ and Glasgow Tower here. Having just been on another walk into Glasgow City Centre a few days ago, and having walked from Anderston to Partick recently in the last post I came to the conclusion that maybe tourists coming to Glasgow might prefer a hotel here, around Anderston or Finnieston districts where there are half a dozen good ones. Crowne Plaza, Courtyard, Radisson etc... rather than the City Centre. The reason being I walked along the waterfront in the city centre ( messy, covered in graffiti) then along Argyle Street from Glasgow Cross to Central Station ( grubby, down at heel, past its best, beggars lying in the street, food delivery cyclists zooming everywhere in numbers) and noticed half the streets there had road works in them. A very different experience from my enjoyable Anderston to Partick walk. So I think tourists would prefer this area more.... and they can still visit the city centre easily for day trips as it's only a short ten minute bus or train ride away.
Glasgow Harbour. Then I thought of all the things tourists or locals could do here instead. Partick, a vibrant shopping area bucking the trend with loads of independent shops and unlike Glasgow city centre very few empty units or street beggars or bikes on pavements, far less graffiti as well. Botanic Gardens. Kelvingrove Museum and Park. Govan old church and stones. Good transport links. Great local walks up the River Kelvin or along the River Clyde in both directions. Dozens of murals that change year by year. University of Glasgow and Hunterian Museum. Glasgow Science Centre, Glasgow Tower, Imax Cinema, Exhibition Centre, Byres Road Lanes District. OVO Hydro. Clyde Arc Bridge and surrounding modern architecture. I could go on. And I found myself thinking this area is much better than Glasgow City Centre. A better image of the city for visiting tourists. More modern. More positive visual vibes. Less hectic. I'll post my city centre visit later on. So you can see the difference between the two areas.
And with this new bridge in place tourists visiting the Riverside Museum and Tall Ship have very easy access to Govan old church as well. A mere five minutes flat walk away across the bridge.
Tour RIBs and Govan Old Church from the Riverside Museum.
Govan Walkway. Govan is a very old district, far older than young upstart Glasgow, with roots dating right back to the 5th century, Viking grave burials ( the Govan Stones), and the seat of the ancient rulers of Strathclyde, a political and spiritual hub when Glasgow was just a couple of cottages and a munching cow beside a stream. Likewise Govan old Church and graveyard with many different reincarnations of churches on this site since that time.
Govan Stones info. Visiting Viking chieftains used hogback carved stones to cover the dead and this church has a fine collection. Later the Vikings became Christian but still kept some pagan customs. The ancient Strathclyde stronghold of Dumbarton Rock ( Fort of the Britons) eventually succumbed to Viking siege tactics and fell so the survivors moved upriver to Govan as the River Clyde at that time was shallow with twisting sandbanks but eventually the Vikings came here as well.
Although tourists could always reach this place by bus or subway it is or was slightly out of the way requiring an extra trip. Not now though. Only five minutes walk from the main tourist draw of the Riverside Museum and Tall Ship... and well worth a visit.
On the day I visited an archaeological team were busy excavating some gravestones and this churchyard has already been under the spotlight several times due to its ancient past throwing up surprises with Tony Robinsons time team arriving in Govan for a dig around a couple of decades ago for television. ( 1997 broadcast.)
Govan Old Church interior.
One of many stained glass windows.
The famous hogback stones. Govan Old Church.
Side view of church.
Govan also has some fine period buildings a stones throw from the church. Pearce Institute here on the Main Street. Built around 1906.
And brand new buildings as well. Govan apartments.
Govan walkway to church.
I got the subway back. Govan to Partick then a bus home from there.
Another good walk and a homemade tasty dinner. Yum yum. Beefburger and fried spuds, egg, onion and peas. 3 of your 5 a day on one plate :o)