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Now that my leg has finally improved enough to attempt serious hill-walking again after a two month plus recovery period to mend itself I set off with Alex for a day trip to Benderloch- a scenic area of mountains, sea lochs, and islands just north of Oban. With the gorse in full bloom and skylarks singing we motored up through the Scottish Highlands in what is proving to be a sustained UK heatwave. In Scotland hardly a drop of rain has fallen in over a month and bogs, gardens and hillsides are bone dry, crying out for moisture. In some places forest fires have started sweeping across hillsides/woods/ moorlands and in urban areas glass bottles, dis-guarded cigarettes, untended barbecues or deliberate arson is always a threat to surrounding grasslands. Empty winter beaches and car parks are full to bursting as folk head for the coast ( judging by the online photos I've seen) and beauty spots get their annual influx of humanity with some inevitably leaving all their rubbish behind when they depart. Being a contrary bugger I've usually had enough of heatwaves after the first week and when I start to see the hillsides burning around me, swarms of flies, clegs, ticks, and assorted biblical beasts increasing in numbers or society breaking down altogether I too get down on my knees under the sunshine and pray for rain. The UK and Scotland needs rain and cool weather to keep some kind of order. I firmly believe this. Here's what I mean.
Kelvingrove Park. Glasgow. photographed recently. People are social creatures and like to band together in large numbers. Most just enjoy themselves as on this day I passed during a recent bike ride but as the forces of law and order know only too well it only takes one flash point for things to turn ugly wherever you find like minded humans in sizable quantities. Years ago they used to have a colourful annual street parade every June ending their walk at this park. Various bands played live music and everyone had a great time, including normally anti social me. Most families headed home satisfied with their day out around six or seven pm but just like the 1960s Flower Power movement in San Francisco when it got too popular and well known, darker elements began creeping in. On a couple of occasions, late on, as the bands packed up and stopped playing you could feel the mood changing after 7:00pm when families left the scene and groups that had been drinking alcohol all day had the grassy slopes to themselves. Police had the unenviable job of moving them all on before dark but on at least one occasion I remember it started raining heavily at just the right time, forcing people to disperse naturally and averting any conflict. Rain in that instance totally saved the day.
Here's what happened when it didn't rain. A shame as I really miss that annual street parade. There used to be a few big free events in Glasgow in the early 2000s. The River Clyde Festival, West End Festival etc ...However, big happy events involving thousands seem somehow destined to end badly at some point in the cycle if they continue too long and get too popular. It's classic chaos theory in action. The West End Festival still happens- just not the same large street parade or open air activities.
Worth a look at this link to see what I mean.
Anyway, we avoided the masses on the beaches, beauty spots, and city parks by heading to a part of the Highlands and a hill well off most peoples radar. Alex's choice of Beinn Mheadhonach, a 2344 foot Graham on the edge of Benderloch District sitting beside Loch Etive proved a winner as it was both secluded and scenic.
A view across Loch Etive to the mountains. Not a single car in the layby and very few tourists around.
Surprisingly colourful as well as the Scottish Highlands in late May usually have a less varied palette than city parks. As a general rule you really need steady money, dedication and upscale gardens over a long period of time in any area to introduce a vivid range of colours in the landscape. Which is why the Lake District or similar affluent areas ( The Golden Bubble Syndrome) look as wonderful as they do. Nature, left to itself, is usually just green with occasional random splashes of difference.
and nothing like this carefully planned spurge of late spring glory side by side. Two different gardens near Connel Bridge.
Gorse is usually the most vibrant natural coating for UK hillsides and is one of my favourites. The smell is amazing- a spicy, sweet, semi coconut perfume that invokes so many summer memories of childhood holidays down the British coast for most people. For any outdoor playing generation in times past wandering off exploring and getting lost alone or with similar aged friends in a tangled gorse thicket covering half a hillside with no obvious way out and that almost cloying, pungent smell of flowers in May/ June was a first maze to never forget. Half joy-half panic, especially wearing shorts and bare limbs in another age. Pleasure and sharp pain combined if you tried to crawl out on hands and knees through bushy tunnels and received an early brutal lesson in the power of thorns.
As experienced veterans in the outdoors a way up was soon found through an open gate into fields, passing this hawthorn tree in full flourish following a faint path onto the open hillsides above. From there a steady slope gained the first level platform to look down on our surroundings.
It turned out to be a hill of many level platforms and many false summits as we reached one hidden rise then another. Luckily, a strong breeze gave us relief as otherwise it would have been a stifling ascent during this current prolonged heatwave. Any midges were blown away and for once no sheep ticks, clegs, or biting insects had a free festival feast on my body. A first in the Highlands at this time of year when I usually come back covered in tiny teeth marks or bloodsucking probes. Insects love me apparently as I always have more bite marks than anyone else. Same as animals...can't get enough of me... but sadly my powers never extended to females I liked. I 've always had no problems batting them away without even working at it. :o(
A fish farm in Loch Etive seen from our hill. Sea food is another no go zone for me these days.
As the nearest Munro was mighty Ben Cruachan, 1126 metres, still boasting snow on its north facing slopes, we had the hill to ourselves and any paths were few and far between, mainly created by red deer and sheep movements for their own ends so no paths visible leading to the summit. Just the way we like it nowadays- the way many remote Munros used to be in previous decades.
As we climbed higher, a full 2344 foot ascent unfolded from an almost sea level start and the higher ranges around us started to appear. Alex also started to get tiny in the landscape. I've always thought he was tiny anyway. A mere Corbett against my soaring Munro. I'm at least three inches taller than he is. I wouldn't mention this normally but size always matters in the hill walking world :o)
Buachaillie Etive Mor, 1022 metres, and Buachaillie Etive Beag, 958 metres, two fine Munros viewed from Benderloch direction.
Bidean nam Bian, 1150 metres, viewed from this less familiar, people empty, side rather than the always busy Glencoe. Even with a strong summit wind the heat haze made photography tricky for distant views but I gave it my best attempt.
Alex reaching the summit cairn with Ben Starav, 1078 metres, in the distance. A popular and classic Munro at the head of Loch Etive.
Summit view across to the island of Lismore, a fertile limestone farm friendly oasis sitting in Loch Linnhe, itself an island dotted sea inlet carving a deep channel into the west coast interior to end at Fort William.
Connel Bridge and the Falls of Lora. The 'falls' are created each new tide by the sea rushing in and out through this narrow channel draining then filling the substantial mass of Loch Etive behind. At certain peak times experienced kayakers and divers flock here to sample the often powerful ebb and flow through the gap. Obviously, this can be dangerous if you lack the skill level required or get into difficulties without support.
A closer view of the bridge.
Golden Chain or Flowering Laburnum. Many people in urban areas have removed these beautiful trees from their gardens over decades in case they get sued by families with poisoned children but nicotine is apparently far more poisonous as a substance and you'd have to eat a lot of this plant to be seriously affected. Very few cases of anyone dying, children or otherwise, have been recorded in the last hundred years or so yet gardens and suburbs are loaded with far more toxic species that no one bothers about. A classic case of perceived guilt by public opinion, urban myth to some extent, and various media outlets joining in to identify a scapegoat rather than any hard concrete evidence of fatal poisoning over the years. Why this particular tree in the firing line? Think of the millions killed by drugs over the same time period. Or children accidentally poisoned every day by a range of common household products like perfume, washing machine capsules, bleach, prescription drugs etc. Do we get rid of them or is it just an easier target? This selective witch hunt happens with people as well all the time. Crowds love a scapegoat as much as insects love me. Lesson is....never trust an angry mob carrying a rope. It might well be for you.
The joy of empty Scottish roads. Not always a certainly in fine weather with several mile long slow moving tailbacks down Loch Lomond practically guaranteed in good weather, especially during spring/ summer heatwaves, for the last few decades. Knowing this we planned ahead and took an alternative way back.
I discovered Gemma Hayes a while ago and this is a brilliant acoustic cover of a classic KB song.
Appropriate lyrics as thunder is getting closer as I type. Very warm conditions recently for a good nights sleep.
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A gallery from March 2018 taken just after heavy snow falls in the city with many main roads closed, most traffic at a standstill, and people opting to leave their cars stuck at home to walk to the shops as many side roads and retail parks had up to four foot of snow, lying in drifts, covering them.
Opting to leave my car at home myself, in case I got stuck or had a slide/ traffic accident on ice/snow covered roads as soon as the public transport came back on and I had a free day I took a bus over to the south side of Glasgow to visit Queen's Park. This is a view from the flagpole summit towards Castlemilk. Most of Glasgow and many of the city parks are built over drumlins, small hills a few hundred foot high resembling an upturned egg box carton containing 50 or so eggs with a city built over it.
As a result many of Glasgow's Parks have outstanding views... and great sledging hills ...which was one reason for coming here with a friend. It wouldn't look very cool for adults without children to enjoy sledging on their own so I had a cunning plan B which involved two rolled up DIY flexible sledges which would easily fit into a rucksack and stay hidden but could be pulled out and used when required.
I have not lost my inner child altogether and managed to find quieter, steeper slopes where no one could see us in action.
Surprisingly long descents followed from summit flagpole to the bottom and great speed was achieved at times on what was basically two strips of tough plastic and old shower curtains with no brakes. Must have been close to a couple of hundred foot of descent or more and a long walk back up again so only a couple of runs before we packed in. Good fun though.
This is the popular area of the park with families having fun- needless to say it wasn't down here we carried out our furtive runs as swerving and stopping once started proved problematic. It was also far too flat here for adults used to proper mountain sports in the past. I'm not going to put my greater ranges bottom on anything slippy unless I'm travelling at a suitably decent velocity to impress onlookers. I have some pride!
The other main reason for the trip was to capture some great photos of the city and the different feeling that snow brings to any place and transforms it. Billy Connolly mural here. Three of these large gable end wall murals of B.C. adorn the city centre. This is the last of the trio to be on the blog.
It's funny that people will travel halfway round the world to sleep in ice hotels for the novelty value alone but no takers here for a fresh air pint outside, served on a snow covered table and chairs.
The nature of murals is that they are temporary projects which usually have a shelf life and this spectacular example is showing signs it will not last forever at low level. Shame, as it is a cracking example of good popular art in the city.
The front of the pub after winter snows. Tables arranged outside during below freezing temperatures seemed a tad optimistic to me but smokers are well used to being punished outdoors I suppose since the indoor smoking ban was introduced.
Glasgow Green with a DIY version of an ice hotel. As the Clutha bar is a five minute walk away it has full facilities. i.e. food and drink nearby. Soon have the roof on this igloo then it's open for tourists.
The main reason for the trip however was to take interesting photos of the 'city in a bowl', surrounded by a wall of snow covered cliffs. Being March and freezing weather the air quality, visibility and snowy backdrop all combined to make great unique images of the metropolis I call home.. That and an excellent photographer in the right place at the right time. Yes, that'll be me folks :o)
It's not just random snaps I take either...oh no.... I do wait patiently for all the right elements to come together. Not enough gulls in this one and flying in the wrong direction. i.e. out of the photo.
A short time later, a slightly different angle, a touch of 'magical thinking,' i.e. some tasty bread thrown down... and all the stars align. Cliffs still in shade... lead gull in sunlight... buildings in focus and pin sharp capture. A happy moment for me. I may be crap at it compared to a paid professional who has to master a wide range of techniques and different equipment but I take it seriously enough as I hobby. And being a hobby, without any time pressures, deadlines to meet, parameters to fit inside, or rules to follow other than my own I still get to enjoy it.
Slightly different lighting effects here and the bold straight lines of the City of Glasgow College. Although Glasgow has three separate universities it also boasts a number of mega colleges, old independent institutions in different parts of the city/ other outlying districts and towns, that have grouped together as several separate buildings in different locations under one umbrella college group name. You can see two of them here, one up on the hill, and one down at the River Clyde. Under a mile apart in this case-both newly constructed buildings. Judging by the sheer numbers of purpose built student accommodation to go with it constructed in recent years within this particular metropolis Glasgow must be one of the top teaching cities in the UK. For this level of investment over the last decade it must also be very profitable I'd imagine. Swapping an industrial past for technology and knowledge based industries. Or maybe it's just because old buildings don't get very reliable Wifi signals with thicker walls and ceilings and the city has to compete with many other continuously advancing structures elsewhere around the world so is forced to modernize from the outdated buildings to attract new students? For me its the changes to the skyline that impress me most. Every couple of years a different look- a new building springing up. Mostly replaced hospitals, schools, colleges, universities and upmarket estates/ upscale apartments making use of newly vacated classic old properties. As in Donaldson's School through in Edinburgh a few posts ago or the gleaming glass towers of Quartermile in the same city cleverly morphing into the guts of a still standing old hospital like something from a Dr Who script..
City of Glasgow College by the river. This is where the nautical department resides, training individuals that could end up working in shipping all over the world, hence the emergency life-craft boat launcher to practice escape drills on.
One of the western side of the Campsie Fells and the rounded lump of Dumgoyne.
The modern 'Dragon's Breath.' Sunlight hitting the windows of the Scottish Power building that supplies our energy needs so quite appropriate really. Along with the City of Glasgow College two of the biggest large scale additions to the skyline view.
Well seen in this distance photo of the city centre.
And one of St Enoch's glass roofed shopping centre, George Square, and the Campsies behind from Queen's Park.
Part of Glasgow's East End district. The Royal Infirmary, Royston and Dennistoun.
One of the rolling streets of Glasgow's city centre district with red sandstone tenements climbing over a drumlin.
And another street in Partick a few miles away. We also have flat level streets in the city but a fair number look like this. Think San Francisco - Glasgow style.
The University of Glasgow with the western edge of the Scottish Highlands behind. No surprise they have well established walking and climbing clubs here with mountains on the doorstep.
A more distant view. Slightly different direction.
Sunset hits the towers and spires around George Square.
A cracking day and night out. Thank you mystery companion :)
The late Alex Harvey was a Glasgow legend famed for his love of showmanship. musical theatre, encyclopedic knowledge of old songs and comic books. He combined all these elements together in the early 1970s to create a rock band that evolved like no other. As seen here.
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I was a winter baby. Born under grey skies, frost, fire,lightning, storms, and snow. But that was never my true nature. I'm mainly a creature of honey, sunlight and butterflies by instinct- split through with occasional shards of darkness, starlight and shadow. Only in 'Spring' did I come to know this though... my first 'Spring' spent truly alive....experiencing that torrent of joyful emotions during that early awakening into my own personal Garden of Eden. "Oh Yes! This will do me nicely," I thought. "This is me."
I was still at the crawling stage then. A furtive rug rat escaped into the family garden from the gloom of the home. New smells, new colours, new under knee surfaces, new burning ball above and a porcelain dish sky filled with little flapping and buzzing things.
And then the fall.... dragged back inside to sit with Lucifer... garden denied me.
So it's a lifelong attraction that's never dimmed.
Gardens of Eden can be anywhere. A single splash of colour against a blue sky. A feeling inside you. A smile. Meeting a stranger who turns, usually unexpectedly, into a best friend over the years.
Or signs of new life in a pond.
.....or a nicely composed photograph, capturing a mallard duck just where you want it to be against a scenic backdrop. Even the quack bottled away in this one with an open beak. Victoria Park near Jordanhill in these photos.
My intention on this trip was simply to capture 'The Flourish' in Glasgow- that moment when the spring colours reach their zenith... vivid... spectacular... sensationally bright. The 'Flourish' only lasts a few short weeks- three weekends usually- so if poor weather or anything else interrupts a visit during what may effectively be six prime non working days in a year- it's easily missed.
A large thrush. Except for those with an internal body clock that is.
Courting pigeons. A strutting, head bobbing male in action. I've noticed over the years some ardent pigeon fanciers sometimes imitate these head bobbing and strutting dances in the street in human form to call flying birds home or attract new captives down into their roost when they think no ones looking. Maybe it does work. Positive thinking certainly gets you a long way. I've often thought this method could be used instead of dating sites for people...no awkward first date meals or tricky conversations required just a long row of pouting, strutting, foot slapping eager males and the females pick a winner. No fights to the death, teeth marks, or locking horns in the pigeon world. They've got it sussed.
Hoverfly and rhododendrons.
Cherry Blossom.
Interesting to note here that these swans have collected a discarded sign saying 'Save our Swans' for their nesting material. A good choice of advertisement. It states that swans are being poisoned by people feeding them mouldy bread they wouldn't eat themselves , unhealthy white bread (gives them rickets just like Victorian children) or other unsuitable or rancid materials chucked in to eat. So not so bird brained after all are they? And good recycling.
A sea of tulips in Victoria Park's oval garden.
Jungle Jangle- the much wilder and sprawling back woods. Can you spot a 'Tigger' yet children? They are often well camouflaged in this kind of environment.
Overview of the Oval.
The Daffodil Meadows.
Suburbia Dreaming in May.
Parklife.
A perfect combination.
And a mechanical crow with camera eyes to protect all this hard work and glory from 'Morlocks.' Any garden of Eden takes time, labour and skill to keep it looking that way so many. many thanks to Glasgow's Parks Department.
And a bouncy upbeat number of equal colour and artistry to match. Heard this song a while ago. Catchy.
