Saturday, 22 May 2010

Lousie Wood Law and the Navvies`Graveyard.

A quick dash down the M74 today as I had to be back home by 1pm.Wasn`t really bothered where I went but was just glad to get out somewhere.After being cooped up in Italy with a crowd of folk for two weeks I was looking forward to getting some peace and quiet on the hills again.A couple of my remaining Donalds around Leadhills fitted the bill.

Parked on the B7040 at NS 915 162 and headed down to ford the Elvan Water.I`d been down here in January.The mist was down to the car and I couldn`t get across the river at all....it was a raging torrent.There was an old telegraph pole spanning it but it was encrusted by 3 inches of ice.I headed off elsewhere to bag some trig points instead.Today I could almost walk across and what`s more,I could actually see the hills :) I headed up the land rover tracktowards the summit of Glen Ea`s Hill,only stopping to slap on the sunscreen.

I like these southern hills.Totally different from their northern cousins but much more peaceful and you can still walk all day and not meet anyone.Different birdlife as well.Today it was the mournful sound of the golden plover that accompanied me as well as the odd curlew and loads of skylarks.


It didn`t seem to be long before I stood on the top of Dun Law.A quick look around I headed off north east along the ridge towards Lousie Wood Law.


Looking back towards Dun Law....


...and the way ahead to Lousie Wood Law...


I was on time,even early as a matter of fact,so had time to hang around for half an hour and enjoy the sunshine...


Aha,I thought. I`ll go down to Elvanfoot and have a look for the Navvies`Graveyard.Headed down to the Lead Burn and over the shoulder of Leadburn Rig to get back to the car.It was warm without the breeze higher up and the car was like a furnace inside but hey ho,this gave me the chance to have a quick smoke while all the doors were open to cool it down.

Four miles down the road and working from memory I parked on the A702 just off the motorway.I knew it was situated under a bridge hereabouts and as luck would have it the first bridge I came to proved to be the one.

The Navvies`Graveyard from above the bridge...


There are 37 stones within the chain that enclose it each one representing a navvy killed in the construction of the Caledonian Railway during the 1840`s.No tombstones or memorials as nobody knew their names,just a stone lifted out of the river bed as their final marker.These guys had a hard,hard life and God knows how they managed to survive.Thousands of people an hour pass over their graves on the M74 nearby and toss rubbish out of their car windows onto them.Maybe we should give them a taste of hard labour...


My grandmother was in the same class at school as the writer Patrick MacGill.He left Donegal just after the turn of the century to work in the hydro electric schemes all over Scotland including the Blackwater Dam at Kinlochleven.He wrote a few semi autobiographical books which I can`t recommend highly enough for giving you an insight into what it was like in these times.Moleskin Joe and Children of the Dead End are well worth buying.They can usually be picked up on Ebay for a pound or two.

The view down the Clyde from the Navvies`Graveyard....


The memorial at the graveyard.It reads.....

"In memory of the thirty seven workmen who died while engaged in the construction of the Caledonian Railway and were buried in this ground which was consecrated 12th August 1847 by Michael Russell,Bishop of Glasgow."



I had a seat and a cigarette in the graveyard,said farewell, and then drove up the road and returned to the 21st century at 1pm...

Bute.An Epic Adventure.

I decided to seize the day by the throat.Up at 6 am and off by 7.20 am bike in car to catch the ferry to the Island of Bute.The forecast was for heatwave conditions, sunny everywhere except for the west coast of Scotland where cloud may dominate.Ran into patchy but thick banks of coastal fog past Paisley then out again at Greenock before finding it again at Wemyss bay.No matter at least it would be cooler.There is a bike and walking route on Bute that is an absolute cracker,among the best in Scotland.A five star day.Since this blog started I`ve been keen to do it but a dodgy forecast has always put me off.It`s so good it should only be done on a belter of a day.Parked in the local garage car park,left my car and paid my £3 quid.

Since childhood I`ve always liked the Victorian train station at Wemyss Bay,a reminder of the days before cheap, safe air travel when everyone took a steamer across to Rothesay in Its heyday.I spent many summer holidays here as a youngster on the island exploring what is a remarkable and fantastic island for walking and cycling.Today's route is the very best tour of the island.A real gem.

Bute is one of my favorite islands in Scotland yet is largely ignored by the walking fraternity including Alex it seemed.He was back from a family trip abroad so I phoned and asked if he was keen.He muttered something about wanting to go to the Hebrides (for a weekend?) ,then mentioned Galloway,then the heat,then his still troublesome back,then finished by saying I wasn't adventurous enough and should set my sights higher.Bloody cheek! .ie Corbetts, Donalds,etc. things he wanted to tick in other words.
I could tell he thought Bute was flat farmland or somehow dull and uninteresting.This baffles me.A lot of folk seem to have this impression.There is only one word for this Island -Fabulous.
Anyway he declined.Sure Arran is higher and more dramatic but Bute also has its treasures.Miffed by this slur on my character I went on to have my hardest and most adventurous day on bike and foot.Ever! Adventure.....I`m stuffed with it!!!!!!!!!!!

They were right about the cloud though.All the way across the foghorn blasted out once a minute on the upper deck as we chugged slowly through the fog bank.Mainland or any land for that matter invisible in the white gloom.Everyone groaned as the main island town of Rothesay came into view.The whole of Scotland in sunshine and we had this.

Cold,damp and dreary.
For some reason though I was convinced it would burn off.Sure enough ten minutes later round the corner the sun started to peek through.Lucky for me as this next stretch is a delight as the road snakes past Bogany Point, Orcadia and Ascog Bay,Victorian mansions draped across the wooded slopes above.


The great thing about this island is that it has so many different types of landscape,a new view round every corner.As I climbed the hill over this middle part of the island it turned into high flat moorland studded with gorse and heather.A few good cycle/walking routes crisscross this area including the West Island Way of which more later.

This is just one of them but a mile back from here at a white stone cross war memorial the scenery looks completely different again though still flat, empty moor prevailing across the spine of the ridge.
Kilchattan village was lost to the mist when I arrived .Gateway to the best section of the West Island Way which cuts round low down on this fine peninsula.Almost a self contained island in itself as its different in character again to anywhere else on Bute.The lava spill of an ancient volcano,Suidhe Chatain,the highest hill nearby which also formed the equally contorted Little Cumbrae.
Had lunch til the mist cleared then set off.It had been my intention to hide my bike in woods here ,locked and hidden off the path but that would mean a 2 kilometre detour back to get it.My next thought was to wheel it round the coastal path.I did just that til I reached here.The cliffs of the Hawk`s nib.



From previous trips I knew the West Island Way here, while good for newcomers ,was not the most exiting route across the peninsula,that lay much higher up crossing the rocky crest of the ridge line over several small but impressive peaks in a swichback loop.
Not adventurous I thought.Right then!!Be prepared to be impressed.
Sholdering my bike I made my way straight up the edge of the line of cliffs on what turned out to be the hottest day of the year so far.I would walk ,drag, wheel or carry my trusty metal horse over the three peaks of this contorted little range.Hows that for adventure Alex ya bagger! Multiple Trig ticking by bike.

I`m willing to bet this is a first.I can`t see anyone else being mad enough to take a bike over this rugged and trackless route before me.As a walk this route is outstanding, as a challenge with a bike....... believe me...it`s much better walking.

I`ve never sweated so much for years,funny thing is though,the harder it got the more I enjoyed it.And it got hard.

There were a lot of Little boats out to sea, cruising round the island is also one of the great ticks of sailing these waters.This is Glen Callum bay with a beach of volcanic black sand. Large sailing ships used to pull in at the inn here in the great days of the spice trade waiting for favourable winds to take them to the other side of the world.It was a rough place then with pirates and armed escorts.Now its deserted and empty, even the lighthouse fully automated.

This was the view from the middle peak.A cracking hill.

They call Bute the Undiscovered Isle in tourist signboards here and it`s true.A glorious day in mid May and very few people over here.None high up on the ridge line,just me and my metal monkey slung on my back :o) Boy was it hot.

This is the nicest little lochan I know covered with flowering waterlilies.St Blanes hill behind.A smashing hill, steep and complex due to gorse everywhere up the ridge.
Oh look Alex. A trig you haven`t done .Captured by bike.

A really steep descent where I used both brakes all the way down even though I was walking beside it to slow us both up took me to the peaceful ruined chapel of St Blanes where I lay in the shade of the giant trees here for ages recovering.A lot of food and several bottles of fizz from my rucksack got consumed.
When I felt refreshed I headed off,gladly trading sore feet for a sore bum again.The only way I can beat this is to do the entire Arran ridge carrying rubber I thought happily.(I think I had sunstroke by this point as this seemed like a good idea too!)
On the road I headed down the A 844 then the B881 past Loch Quien and Loch Fad.Both stunning lochs in a mini Great Glen trench.


A great two day backpacking trip around Bute would be to start at Rothesay,go up Barone Hill and along this open easy ridge until Tarmore hill then drop down onto the West Island Way.A wild night camp somehere on the penisula (Glen Callum bay or on top of St Blanes Hill?) then a return via the Suidhe hill and the Butts moor over the causeway splitting loch fad back to Rothesay.This would be a delightful outing and I`ve never seen it in any guide book.The Undiscovered Island indeed.There.....I`ve given you one of my most treasured gems giftwrapped with a bow.Go on a good day and you will not be disapointed.A fabulous walk.If you are completly insane you can even drag a bike over these hills. (There are buses from Rothesay to Kilchattan.) I`m an adventurer.I like to do things the hard way!

Wednesday, 19 May 2010

Callendar House and the Falkirk Uplands.

Callendar House/Park is well worth a visit in itself with its Georgian kitchen,period rooms and floor of exhibits.OS map 65.Falkirk.
A seat of power in the Falkirk area for 1000 years from the great wooden hall of the original Thane to the present French chateau version.Both park and house are open to the public (2 to 4pm only on Sundays for house.)The Antonine wall runs right through the middle of the grounds as well but thats not why I was here.

I was using the park as a starting point for exploring the Falkirk ridges,a large upland sky scape of soaring plateau and soft rolling folds that I feel is the true roof of Scotland for its bleak emptiness and vast horizons.You probably need to go to Caithness in the far north to get flat scenery on this scale elsewhere in Scotland.A favourite place to build prisons ,past and current.Former open cast coal mines and lost villages complete the picture on these high ridges.

So.Place to go sorted I watched the forecast in my house with expectation.Ho Hum!A carbon copy of last spring/ summer seems to be unfolding with dull grey mornings then improving after lunch time ending with a sunny evening.Looking out the window at the murk(this is Sunday 9 /5/10 by the way) I stayed indoors,stuffing my face with crisps and reading my interesting library book.
Monsters,Murderers and Madmen -history`s most evil humans revealed.Tales of rectal impalement procedures and head boilings had me chortling happily.I like a good impalement story me.I always fancied I could have been an enthusiastic mass murderer if I`d paid attention and stuck in more at school :0)
Around 10 o clock I`d had breakfast,seedless grapes, cashew nuts and sugar puffs, then set out for Falkirk.
Callendar Park is situated near the town centre with several car parks to choose from.I picked the biggest one near the high flats and the entrance then set off on my bike.First stop past the large pond with its swan boats and islands was the Forbes Mausoleum hidden in the woods beyond.

Yer man high heid yin was the proprietor of the Carron Iron works who made a fortune from navy contracts, putting a layer of copper on the nations hulls.By the age of 40 old copper bottom was the richest self made man in Scotland so he bought Callendar House.He then built this impressive Mausoleum after the sudden death of his first wife.Now its neglected ,sad and largely forgotton in its gloomy bower.
The local kids know about it though,like me enjoying its Gothic vibe of an evening.I was impressed they`d managed to climb up onto the first tier.When I was young I used to play among the temples,ruins and overgrown gardens of a large estate myself,the Maxwell family wonderland in country between Nitshill and Barrhead.Full of jackdaw infested mansions, old mines,water filled quarries and the odd folly or two.
Standing 45 feet high on its Doric columns in a damp shadowy setting I usually think of Count Dracula and his brides entombed in here.Sweet.Always pay my respects to those inside when I`m over here.
Following a wooded path up the ridge behind through mixed woodland took me into Hallglen,a mini Cumbernauld style scheme just as the sun came out.

From here it was a short hop down to Glen village and the nearby tunnel,a well known landmark on the canal which leads to the Falkirk wheel if followed.

After a quick nip through both ways just for the thrill it was off up the minor road climbing onto the main Plateau and the high ridge lines.

Delightful cycling up here and fairly flat once you`ve done the initial push onto the uplands.

Easy peddling in good warm sunshine followed across a rolling mostly empty landscape under vast skies.High plains drifting indeed.Wind can be a problem up here but it was no more than a breeze today with superb cloud formations overhead.

I cut out over Gardrum moss with its tundra like setting then round by babbit hill and easter rigghead where I cut right at avonbridge to follow more minor roads across the folds to Maddison.

Then a place with a surprising name.

The sleepy village of California which may have been named after that American state gold rush of the mid 1880s as that was when this village was founded to mine the rich seams of coal in the area.Black gold.

This nice house looked a bit at odds with its surroundings. On the one side a view of grassy fields,cows, horses, sheep and woods...... on the other.......

A hugely enjoyable freewheel next where the real descent back into the Falkirk trench begins past Shieldhill and came just at the right time too as legs were starting to tire.It seemed to last for ages.
Always enjoy this bike trip in a surprisingly beautiful area yet one that that only really skims the edge of this vast upland region.Loads to explore here.
Oh, and a smashing meal back home.What a day!

Saturday, 15 May 2010

Stained Radiance. A Dark Angels Tale.

Stained Radiance. A Dark Angels Tale

Disclaimer. Be warned. This is a story like no other so people of a nervous disposition look away now. It takes 3 minutes to read. If you scan down to the end it will ruin it for you. its up to you.


You cant pick your childhood. God scatters new babies like a half blind farmer scatters corn in his field. Some land in the middle and have a lush life, others fall nearer the margins and have more of
a struggle, a few land in semi darkness, on stone, under the hedge. Her father was a professional blues musician who played guitar in minor bands clear across America. In the entertainment business for every one that makes it  thousands struggle. Imagine sowing a field of corn if only one in a thousand ever made it to harvest, yet so many people dream of being famous. He certainly did.
In those early years he was convinced he would be a new edge in music, acclaimed, feted, a guitar god. A white Hendrix. Gradually year by year the fires of this conviction dimmed then went out.
Now it was just a job. Poor or average pay, long and arduous travel, bad on relationships. Fortunately he was fairly handsome and a smooth, confident talker so a collection of women fell into his life like leaves into a pond. Only success eluded him.
By now though he had a kid, something to make the endless nights in smoky bars and clubs worthwhile
Her mother was a mistake. Good looker but after a few years it had run its course. He only stayed with her for the sake of the kid and they both knew it.
One night he came back early after a two month stint around the great lakes to find her passed out and wasted on the couch with a new boyfriend in tow in a similar condition. His kid locked in
the kitchen with the dog, both of them surviving on dry biscuits ,hot and real thirsty in the late evening heat, twin tongues licking melting ice off the open freezer door. In that image he'd lost it, all the years of empty dreams fused in one moment of madness.
He'd grabbed a car jack lying in the hall and smashed them both, her face and legs, his arms- then a cooling down period out back, away from the moans, to think.
They were so far out of it the assault could have been anyone. The only witness the wide eyed kid.
He had friends in Mexico she didn't know about. He'd have to change the car and being a musician was too much of a risk to take. No matter ,he was a passable mechanic thanks to his pushy dad,
serving a apprenticeship in a local garage before he took up the golden plank for good. Scooping up the five year old he lit out for the border.no curtains twitched. it wasn't that kind of street.
She was quiet in the new car, still pondering why her father had hurt mommy so much. Was that her fault? Why wasn't the dog with them? Her fault again? Time passed in Mexico and a crime and
a puzzle remained unsolved.

Her ninth birthday found her in a trailer park in Detroit with a few young friends who lived in vans nearby. Pretty, with a likable personality she made friends fast. She had to, moved around a lot.
Missing the homeland he'd asked for word and the word coming back was good. Wheelchair bound partner dead from a drug induced heart attack ,boyfriend, a junkie, out the picture. Cops busy
elsewhere. So he'd come back to the USA got a job in a motor shop ,stuck fast. And was grabbed not by the cops but by the school board concerned that this quiet young girl who spoke as
much Spanish as English had missed so much schooling. She had a different surname of course but overall she was a happy child though prone to occasional deep mood swings. By this age she was asserting her own personality, demanding the right to settle and get an education, sounding more like her mother every day.
Tired of the hassle, tired of fixing cars, missing the road and the women on it this good father came up with a solution and she was packed off to her grandmother in St Louis in order to go to school without awkward questions coming his way. She wasn't that sad. All she'd known in her short life was travel and instability. Two years of bliss followed and she thrived on the attention.

He wouldn't allow her to go to the old ladies funeral, nor into care. Kin looks after kin. So it was off to his brother in Kansas who was now comparatively wealthy, two kids of his own, and could afford another mouth at the table. To get over the loss and the up and coming intended fatherly separation he'd bought her a cheap guitar. She could already pick out tunes by ear, long years in countless
rooms with his guitar often the sole entertainment, her education.
So that was her settled and he was off again, convincing himself that he had to keep moving to avoid questions from the authorities. They both knew the truth. He liked running, suited his nature.
She'd make friends he told her. She was a survivor. Like him.
So began her long ordeal which she later referred to jokingly as the wonder years.(as in I wonder what's gonna show up in my bed next)
As fast as it appeared the sun went out of her life like a candle being pinched and it was back to growing in the shade again for a spell.

Her uncle was not a deliberately cruel man but his type of work moulded character, smothered compassion. Slaughterhouse folk are a breed apart. When you take life's for a living a mental change occurs not always obvious to the outsider, and she was made to feel that way very quickly. The whole family had a callous, physical sense of humour which she soon learned had its creative peak in the two boys. Especially the younger one who resented her intensely for reasons she could never work out. She just knew she was engaged in a war, one she had to win for her own sanity.
Judy was right in the Wizard of Oz. This wasn't Kansas. At eleven years old shed been taken by her father and dumped straight into in hell.
Both boys, fifteen and ten, were powerfully built and strong for their age. The oldest already helping out in the killing sheds, power washing the floor and getting rid of damaged scraps.
When they saw how much she freaked out when they left a burst cows tongue under her pillow they were intrigued and delighted by easy fun in otherwise hard life's.
Even a sound beating from their father, angry that blood stained sheets had to be washed failed to dent their enthusiasm for this new game.
But she learned fast, aware of the contemptuous look her uncle had thrown in her direction when leaving the room with the fist wrapped package.
Their would be no more hysterics.
The waiting was the worst part. Weeks would go by then a severed ear would turn up in a drawer or a bulls tail would be left in her wardrobe next to her one good dress. She steeled herself.
blacked it out. Didn't fuss. Grimly picking up whichever body part soiled her room then dumping it outside the house in a bin.You can get used to anything given time and as she found out
there's only so many parts to a cow. Grudgingly it stopped. She'd earned some respect.

Far worse though was the casual day to day grind in the slaughterhouse sheds outside. From early morning until after dark the machinery rumbled on .Like a living entity in the rattle of the killing
boxes, blood mixers, separators, belts and saws, an endless orchestra of noise and clanging metal. Underscoring it all the moans and screams of the distressed animals, kicking gates and walls as they were shocked and prodded into the vast machine to come out as blood, beef, veal or sausages at the other end.
One sight would remain with her forever. A downed cow, to weak to stand, accidently cut up and skinned alive, still moaning, before a man with a bolt gun seeing her watching ended its misery and slammed the door shut.
After that she avoided the farm at every opportunity, throwing herself into her music, playing guitar in a far off wood or thumping an old piano in the workers quarters half a mile down the road while
the men did their job.
Around this time she started to drink. Slicing up cattle is thirsty work. It was easy to steal alcohol in such a large neighbourhood of heavy drinkers. She didn't need as much in these early days. It helped to numb the horrors her own imagination placed in her bed, far worse than any grim reality. She rarely took a bath or shower, acutely aware of the number of single men around the property. Half wild she preferred to sponge in a remote ditch many fields away when the itching got too much. Besides she could take a thousand showers in this place and never feel clean.
Gore and burst intestines dripped down on her face every night in her dreams.
She hung on and survived. Just.
Self destructive and emotionally damaged, that survival came at a cost.

At fifteen she knew she was ready. Like her father before her she hit the road, two stolen bottles of bourbon and her guitar catching the first bus of the morning. A year ago she'd started to write songs. Would her troubled and unusual life thus far give her a unique twist on the world? The different edge and style the public seemed to crave. Something to make her stand out from the
crowd?
She didn't know or care. Looking back at the silent machinery it was only important to get away before it sprang into hungry life again, grinding out animals and darkening the sun of her new
hopeful day. One thing was certain. She wouldn't be taking any shit from anybody anymore. Those days were over.













But first she'd cut out the life growing inside her like they cut up those cows. No way was she having this baby. Never to him.

Monday, 10 May 2010

The Antonine Wall.By Bike!

This is actually May bank holiday,s Sunday trip of the 2.5.10 but I`m running a week behind being single handed and manning the helm while Alex has family duties which He`ll post himself next week sometime.
I fancied a bit of history with my Sunday adventure this time.Years ago I used to race up north to the highlands of Scotland bagging Munros on public holidays like this but times change.Today I put the bike in the car,took some painkillers for my overworked legs and went to......... Kilsyth.
Whats up? Hey. No midges, dry, warm, sunny and low petrol consumption for one guy travelling in a car. A done deal.

Auchinstarry quarry car park to be precise.This was the starting point.A popular spot on a dry day for fishermen,rock climbers and cyclists.A network of canal paths and bike routes start from here.The best stretch of the Forth and Clyde canal runs along here winding its way beneath Bar Hill,Castle Hill and Croy Hill.I intended to go over all three on a bike following the crest of the ridge line along the Antonine Wall.
So.Cycled easily along the canal bank til Twechar then up through the village on main road til this sign.

Heavy panting up a steep landrover track past farm dogs and a gate led to more open pastures with great views over to the Campsie hills.

My reward was Bar Hill Roman Fort and the remains of the Antonine Wall (a big ditch now really) which still runs visibly along the lenght of this chain of small hills.

These are smashing hills, wild and unfrequented except by the occasional local dog walker or village worthy.A May Bank holiday and I passed three people in total on the ridge.Danced my bike over a couple of gates and walked it through the ground level remains of Bar Hill,a very pleasant open wooded area ideal for a picnic though I don't think that's the intention.

The more windswept Castle Hill lay beyond with a steeper open summit on which gleamed a trig (Hi Alex) and an Info board about another fort that existed here til the Romans built their own.Funny that.

Don't know about you but to me a trig is not worth ticking unless you've dragged a large hunk of metal up it.

Yeah! Go Bobby!
A large grassy ribbon runs off this hill marking the ditch of the wall.Lower down a bike friendly track leads at an angle into the ex mining village of Croy.For its small size A lot of top class professional boxers came from here and the nearby Moodiesburn.Todays youngsters seem to be more interested in trail and quad bikes though.
Soon passed them as they stuck to the area round the village and was once more alone on the ridge.A huge man made hole in the ground lies to the south.Its still a working quarry and its massive.
This hill,Croy, is a sprawling mixture of natural semi wooded rollercoaster slopes and old vegetated spoil heaps giving it a crumpled look.Its a lovely hill.A good network of single track paths snake through and over the contours some on the edge of the drop over looking the canal below.
Spaces in the trees let you peer down god like on the folk below.This god was knackered so sat down for a spot of lunch.A girl on a horse went by giving me this surreal picture of the pylon.

Lunch over made my way down to the canal and just caught a lucky shot from the bridge.

Next up was Banton loch where a good wide track runs along the south bank to the neat and compact village.From there followed a white road marked on map intending to cut along the north bank of the same loch.When will I ever learn about white roads on OS maps.....
This one started off OK but then disappeared completely for over a kilometer leaving me to vault a collection of fences and tramp through some very boggy marshland to get this view back towards Croy hill.I think it must have been surveyed by plane by Mr Magoo's blinder brother on an off day.A lot of white roads are a real adventure.
I was quite impressed I`d cycled over this.Croy Hill.A bit of determined portage as we say in kayaking circles got me back on a track cycling towards Colzium house and its small but lovely walled garden.
This house and grounds acts as a park for Kilsyth and has some nice glen walks,kids playground and pond.Followed the canal like lade back into Kilsyth then up over the incline on cobbled streets back to the car.Not a long day mile wise but action packed none the less.Back home for a big feed and an excellent DVD." Pennies from Heaven.... the original British TV one.A boxed set for a fiver.What a bargin Eh?.

Auchinstarry showing quarry car park and boat basin.Its well worth a visit to this unfairly overlooked area. Bags to do here.