Canna:Carn a Ghaill & the Northern Cliffs.

Sunday Part One:

Scotland, eh ? Sometimes you think you have seen everything it has to offer then it throws up a day like this and laughs in your face In the absence of any big hills on the island I`d had a good read about the various archaeological sites on Canna before coming over in order to make the most of the day and flesh it out a bit. I needn`t have worried though...it`s a fantastic wee island.! Given the warm, sunny forecast we`d decided the previous evening just to get up the moment one of us awoke. I'd mistakenly assumed that this would be in daylight

I awoke to the sound of Bob`s stove purring gently away in the next tent. He likes a big breakfast and I don`t do breakfast at all so I rolled over for an extra few minutes kip while he sorted himself out. " It`s a great day outside Alex......it`s time you were up". Now anyone in their right mind would assume on hearing this statement that it was daylight outside. I put on a coffee and poked my head out the tent to see a feint orange glow on the horizon, the outline of the castle opposite and a fishing boat offshore working with it`s lights on....

"What exactly is the time Bob" I enquired. "Don't really know. It's too dark to see my watch."  Turned out it was 5.15am.It was a lovely morning though.! By the time I had a cup of coffee or two what I would deem to be daylight had arrived.

Proper daylight arrives....

We faffed about a bit watching the hills on Rum  change colour before heading off over the field and up Compass Hill.....

Looking over the harbour on Canna towards St. Edwards Church on Sanday. The Atlantic was like a millpond....

The sheep were still a bit bleary eyed at this time of the morning and this ram was a bit miffed when we woke him up to take his portrait...

We emerged out of the shade and immediately hit the edge of the sea cliffs just below Compass Hill.
An absolutely stunning view.! The edge of Compass Hill with Sanday and Rum in the background.

Bob was now in his shorts and it was only just after 7am....

If the views were like this all the way along the north coast it was going to be a long day. Further along the sea stack of Iorcuill came into view. We went rock climbing for years Bob and I and are quite good at gauging the height of features like this. Somehow the scale of these cliffs were hard to grasp probably because we were not expecting anything like this on such a small island. I'd guess the stack was around 120 feet or so.

Further along the cliffs....

At this point, stunning though the coastal scenery was proving, I felt the need to bag the island high point because Carn a` Ghaill was a Marilyn
Funnily enough, although this was the summit of the island it proved to be the least interesting part of the day although under normal circumstances it would be a smashing viewpoint. Back to the cliffs again with a hazy Skye on the left.
Having been brought up in Scotland the cameras were having big trouble coping with bright sun which was still low on the horizon. Messed about with this one to give you an idea as to what it is like there. Maybe we should have stayed in bed for an extra few hours

Looking westwards was better for the light. Bob walking along the cliff top...

The view down to the King of Norways  grave at Rubha Langanes...

A couple of golden eagles drifted up towards me while I was traversing below this crag but didn`t hang around for very long. No piccies I`m afraid.
We cut inland here to try and find the souterrain marked on the map but gave up after 30 or 40 minutes. There were that many piles of stones scattered over the area that could be possibilities that it would have taken too long to find the best one.

We wandered down to the shoreline at Camas Thairbearnais and then up to the top of the this small headland  for a well earned rest and a spot of lunch.

The fisherman who was arguing with the seals the previous evening passed by again.....

To be continued yet again ...

Isle of Canna.

Day one.

The forecast for the weekend had been consistently good so after a reassuring late check on Friday evening we decided to get out of Glasgow and head to the islands again.It`s a hard life but somebody has to do it :) We weren`t 100% sure exactly where we were going, either Rum or Canna.As the forecast was for rain coming in on the Monday we decided on Canna.We rolled into downtown Mallaig ( ahem.! ) under a glorious sky that even managed to gladden the heart of the grumpier of the two Blue Sky boys.


Grabbed one of the few remaining spaces in the long term car park on the left as you hit Mallaig and shouldered our rucksacks for the walk into the ferry terminal where our ferry was just reversing into the harbour.


Out of the harbour and turn left...oopsy...I mean hard a port...


....and we were on our way to our first port of call,Eigg.We had some great views of the Cuillin on the way over...




A yacht passes under Marsco on the left and Bla Bheinn on the right...


Coming into the harbour on the Isle of Eigg with the mountains of Rum perched behind the headland...


A ten minute stop to offload a few passengers and the cargo which was probably a desperately awaited delivery of booze given our experience there in June :) ....and we were on our way to the Isle of Muck passing An Sgurr on the way...



It`s only a short hop of about half an hour or so to Muck which is by far the smallest of the these islands.The harbour at Muck....


The journey over to Canna was enlivened by various basking sharks and dolphins never mind stunning views towards the Rum Cuillin.The Rum hills from this side are a bit like the dark side of the moon in that not a lot of people see them from this angle.You only get to see this particular view if you are on a boat or live on Canna :)
Some pics of Rum while we passed by...








Thankfully it wasn`t far to Canna now as we were getting a bit fed up with the views and all the basking sharks and what not :)


Approaching Canna after four hours sailing past the lighthouse on Sanday....



As we disembarked we met the National Trust warden for the island, Winnie MacKinnon. Winnie was loading supplies into her land rover and she very kindly offered to give us a lift up to their preferred camping spot.This is a woman who has her priorities right.We passed our rucksacks into the back and squeezed in beside her daughter on the floor whilst Mollie the Collie sat in regal splendour on the only passenger seat.....


She dropped us off at a delightful spot near Coroghon Castle where we pitched our tents 30 feet above the beach....


...before setting off to look for some driftwood for a fire...


What a backdrop,eh ?
A lobster fisherman and a couple of seals were close offshore arguing the toss as to who exactly was responsible for overfishing....




Lovely peaceful spot but there wasn`t a breath of wind and the midges were out to play so we retired over the field to the Gille Brighde where Aart served up a few bottles of Glenfinnan Gold which is now my favourite beer :) It`s hard to imagine anyone starting up a business like this on an island with a population of around 20 but they seem to be making a go of it with overnighting yachts and the odd holidaymaker.Bit out of the Blue Sky pockets pricewise but it may be one for you Ken ?

A wee video of some other shots set to appropriate music so turn down your speakers if you are meant to be working.Not that I expect you would do that sort of thing :)





To be continued.....

Beinn Chuirn and Meall Odhar,Tyndrum.

Despite the sunny weather that had been forecast it was a rather drab and dreary Tyndrum when we pulled into the Green Welly shop car park.Had a look at the newspaper and a bag of crisps and still it rained and was murky outside.A quick phone call to Scott, who was marooned in his office, and he checked the latest forecast which confirmed that it should indeed be sunny overhead.!

I persuaded a reluctant Bob that it would do him good to get a few decent hills under his belt again.His facial expression indicated otherwise.! However,the rain stopped immediately we left the car would you believe although the tops were still wearing the usual white shroud which indicates it`s summer time in Scotland.A quick flog through the forest track and we were soon nearing the farm buildings at Cononish.

Looking back down on Cononish...


We carried on a bit further to the high point of the path that contours the side of Beinn Chuirn before striking up the slopes towards the summit.It was easy going in the main but the lower section was knee high grass which meant that we were soaked from the knee down.It`s only fair to point out that Bob had predicted something like this.!

The knees performed their duty and creaked ever upwards and soon enough we reached the wide open tops where the promised sunshine duly arrived.A nice wee walk around the lip of the coire to the summit cairn in t-shirts now.

Bob walks around the lip of the coire....


I had enticed Bob up here with a promise of a visit to the remains of the old lead mines on the return journey.I may have inadvertently omitted the fact that the quickest way was to bag the intervening Graham top of Meall Odhar which lay betweeen us and Tyndrum :) Though he had every reason to complain that`s not really his thing.He really is one of the easiest going guys I have met.So,once more the kness were given a bashing on the steep descent to the col before a steady pull up onto the summit plateau of Meall Odhar.

View back to Beinn Chuirn from the slopes of Meall Odhar....


We lounged around here for an hour or so.

Bob at the summit....



Looking over to the Tyndrum hills....


Zoomed photo of Ben More....


Another 45 minutes took us over the ridge and down to the top of the lead mines.On my last visit here you could enter them at will and I spent a few good hours in them and picked up some good samples of galena in the spoil heaps.The Health and Safety era has arrived in the intervening years though and now there are signs everywhere warning of the dangers and fences around all the entrances as well.


One of the adits....


Anyway,over the fence for a quick visit again.If any legal representatives are reading this I felt justified in ignoring the signage as I though I heard a pussy cat trapped down one of the shafts :)
There`s really not much to see without taking some climbing gear up to abseil down the biggest one.
20 foot drop into a small pool from here....




The heat was getting quite impressive as we walked down from the mines and we were thankful for the short forest stretch at the end for a respite.

Bob taking a pic of a spider near the river...



Paid a quick visit into see Mr.Brodie in Tyndrum for a few cokes and it was good to have a quick word with him and see him still going strong.He must be a fair age now as he was old when I was young :) Bet his knees are in better shape than ours though..!

Bute.West Island Way.

Greetings and apologies folks. Due to the Islay three day mega post this is rather late.We better not go away anywhere interesting for a two week trip like our old club used to every year or this will turn into a thousand page a post exercise.
The week after Islay I had the opportunity to go over to Bute again for the day.Asked Alex if he wanted to come as it was a cracking forecast but he was busy.Also, I suspect, a visit to the self styled " undiscovered isle" did not seem to be high on his wish list despite having several trigs to bag here.
This is a mystery to me,this apathy among the outdoor troops for Bute.
So,back on my favorite island again solo with my trusty bike.I fancied a relaxing easy day as I was still slightly knackered from Islay.Bute has such variety packed into a compact area.


This is the winter gardens to the right of the ferry.The shows were in town.


Luckily for my wallet though I could make my own entertainment and thrill rides for zero cash outlay.
As the ferry was coming in the idea of cycling up all the hills of Rothesay appealed and tired legs were instantly forgotten in the blood rush of this new plan.


This is the hill up Ballochgoy near where international child star Lena Zavaroni grew up and went on to tour the world playing for kings, popes, presidents and old blue eyes Frank Sinatra.
It is also incidentally where the north part of the west island way cuts through so I decided to follow that.
Up a steep road near the pavilion then I had to get off and push to climb this steep and beautifully neglected flight of stairs beside the old abandoned Rothesay Academy.I love places like this that are almost forgotten,reclaimed by nature and her children.

Up another steep road then out, passing the discreet island dump and landfill site following the dots and dashes on the map as they zig zagged across grassy fields and rutted lanes towards Port Bannatyne.The views are smashing throughout.This is really a walking route but as ever I was happy to push and lift in places.My reward was meeting an old farmer with his dogs who remembered the dummy town during the second world war set up at the northern tip of the island ,near the burnt islands.Long chains of lights draped over the empty hills around the kyles to fool the Germans into dropping their bombs on this fake Greenock.The concrete pillbox the pesky weasel and myself used to reluctantly co- habit as a sleeping doss probably held a generator used to power the lights.
Must have been comforting hearing planes overhead for his parents when like him you lived on a farm just across the water on the Colintraive side.At that age though he must have found it all a great adventure from the usual feeding the beasts and farm life.
Kames Bay passed by then the up and over across the island to Ettrick Bay where trams used to run taking the Victorian holiday makers to the broad sands of the beach in droves.Like Lena, in their own time they were famed far and wide.
Nowadays its still nice here but mainly empty,one small cafe and car park and a mere scattering of families on the sands compared to hundreds in its heyday before cheap air travel.

Bute in general is amazingly quiet considering its sheer brilliance for walking and cycling and its proximity to Glasgow.Mind you I like it that way.
As it was low tide I cycled along the sands but for once this beach didn't work,too deep and sandy for easy travel.I then followed the main road south round the island,traffic free and filled with honeysuckle and other wild flowers overflowing from the hedges like a burst sofa.This was after all, a Bute main road.
Good views down to the fertile island of Inchmarnock and the remains of St Ninians Chapel on its low spit of land.Lugged the bike up Tarmore Hill for spectacular views over Arran.Met some fellow cyclists here on the road below the ascent.


Also a father out with his kids for a days cycling round the island and stopped for a chat. As you can see I`m not one of these heads down,beat the clock type peddle pushers. (Hi Scott and Alistair!) For one thing I screech to a halt every time I see a good picture.Its like golf when you indulge in photography I`m afraid... its a good walk/cycle spoiled!

Scalpsie Bay looked incredible from here .Wild and empty with deep blue water and galloping white horses.It looked great for swimming but I knew it would be freezing even in high summer and settled for a much needed can of coke at the Kingarth hotel instead.It was starting to really heat up now and I`d used my stock of liquids.The little black objects in the bay are wooden posts,not people.This is after all, a pristine Bute beach :0)
Next up on the tick list was the Moor road which cuts across the spine of the island above the two main lochs,one of which is seen here and has a real upland feel.Its the high point in this picture.


I returned to the West Island Way again at the memorial where the main road splits here and a pleasant track is followed rising gently over the ridge with only a few remote farms for company along its length.This is also primarily a walking route though this one is ideal for bikes too.
The tranquil waters of Loch Ascog being the highlight here.

Bute has some truly beautiful lochs.
Freewheeled back down towards the outskirts of Rothesay again but I skirted round it to climb


Canada Hill by way of the twisting serpentine road then up through the edge of the golf course to the summit.One of my favourite seats is up here with excellent views over the Firth of Clyde.



A munch was called for ,chewing down on Mr Kiplings finest jam tarts and smoked applewood cheese slices.
On my annual childhood trips here with my family we sometimes stayed in this grand residence overlooking the bay which is now a private abode but then used to be holiday self catering flats.


Still framed by two giant monkey puzzle trees Bogany Wood ran right up to the door,the edge of a mature forest of trees stretching round the hillsides with paths galore.For a young boy that loved the outdoors this was heaven on earth and my parents hardly saw me for the two weeks of the Glasgow Fair as I explored my kingdom.
After Canada Hill I drifted down to Ardencraig gardens,a lovely compact place with a long aviary against one wall full of twittering small birds and a cascade of tiny ponds.There`s not much of it but what there is is superb.As it was after 3.30 now it was shut though,denying me my photo of its wild riot of flowers.
No matter. What I was really after here was the marvelous gliding freewheel though the Bogany Wood back to Rothesay, on a gentle dirt ribbon high above the bay.It started just down from the gardens.This too is also a fantastic walk in its own right.



An excellent day out in great conditions considering the prevailing weather at this time of year,the Scottish monsoon season......otherwise known as high summer.

Even managed to catch this huge cruise ship at Greenock docks.Imagine what it costs to go on one of these monsters.For under a tenner I`ve had such a fantastic time.I may be relatively poor but I`m so lucky to be a outdoor creature.The simple pleasures truly are the best.

PS... For those interested our music blog is now up and running.I realise everyone has different tastes in bands.Don't worry though its not the music that's the star of this.It contains some of the most beautiful,thought provoking, or inspiring videos I`ve seen on my years browsing Youtube.The music is almost incidental to the images on show.It`s worth a look.You will need a heart of stone not too be moved though.....or entertained.I`ve sat through major budget films that contained less ideas than these three minute wonders.At the moment its all my choice but Alex may even post his hairy sporran clip if we get a good response.