When we awoke in the hut on Saturday morning the sight of the Black Cuillin on Skye was one of early morning clag over the jagged peaks. Well named. It was black alright. Gabbro tends to repel any vegetation growing on it.
Fortunately, the older members of the group had bagged all the Black Cuillin summits before now so while some younger club members set off undaunted into the mist, full of youthful enthusiasm, we motored out of Glen Brittle in search of lower hills below the clag level... and even some sunshine.
We headed north, towards Portree- The Sunseekers.
And managed to find it. Red Cuillin here. Also well named.
Our journey took us through the main Skye town of Portree (the photo above is of Achachork, a smaller nearby community), which we passed on the way to Torvaig. From here a faint path leads across fields to the slopes of Sithean Bhealaich Chumhaing. A bit of a mouthful but a fantastic hill nonetheless.
There was a bit of a hesitant traverse from a farm, trying to keep to the right gates and gain rough ground in a proper fashion but after that it was easy and obvious. Uphill and towards the edge of 'the great escarpment'. This starts more or less at Ben Tianavaig, seen above and continues past Portree up the northern edge of the island for over 30km to end at Rubha Hunish at the very tip of the northernmost headland. It's really several parallel waves of rising escarpment cliffs- a lower edge running from the Sligachan Hotel area past Portree to Inver Tote, around 300 metres, 1000 foot high mark, falling straight into the sea... and a higher ridge-line escarpment running further inland around 400 metres to 700 metres, containing highlights like The Quiraing and The Storr. Away from these two popular tourist honeypots the scenery is still spectacular but rarely visited except for more serious hill-walkers as it requires slightly more effort, planning, and navigation.
The full Trotternish Ridge walk from Portree to Floigarry is a marathon all day hike of almost 30km ( 18miles) of up and down switchback summits- a small section of which can be seen here.
However we were more than happy with our choice today. Portree in the background.
As we climbed higher views became more impressive with a cliff edge dropping one thousand feet to the sea below, on the left of the photo. The almost island peninsula of Ben Tianavaig behind Alex and John here and the Red Cuillin Peaks in the distance.
Looking down off the cliffs at a commercial fish farm below- probably salmon. A couple of wildlife boats also run tours across this bay for seals, seabird, dolphins and sea eagle watching. All of which are fairly common here.
A closer view of how rugged the land is in detail. Wild Skye at its finest.
Me being me I like the little things around me as well though.
The often equally dazzling complexity of the micro worlds underfoot.
And the colours they bring to the party.
A fish cage and service boat with fish visibly jumping up for food.
Autumn colours. Scottish Highlands.
The path. Sithean Bhealaich Chumhaing. 392 metres. 1286 feet high. I found myself wondering how many sheep tumble off the cliffs here as some could be spotted in very precarious positions and sheep, unlike goats and baboons, are not exactly nimble dancing across cliff edges generally.
A distant view towards Torridon district.
Panorama of the area. Red Cuillin spread out in the distance.
On the way back down off the summit I took this shot of Portree and it was with a fair degree of surprise that I realized with incredulity that I'd never been up or noticed this folly/ tower on the hilltop before. Normally, turning up in Portree, in a climbing club car, we are there for food or drink, a fish supper, essential supplies, or just for the buzz of a scenic town on a wet day when the hills are out due to pouring rain or misty conditions. This time I was determined I would seize my chance to explore this unknown little hill better if the opportunity presented itself.... to be continued.
4 comments:
Gorgeous photos again.
Cheers Anabel.
Always fancied going up that hill but was never sure how to get at it (plus, didn't usually have long enough in that area of Skye).
You head up from the farm at the road bend just before you drop down into Torvaig. Look for a wee monument behind the farm and make for that then onto the rough but easy ground beyond.
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