ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.
Balmoral Hotel. Edinburgh. On the same day that Alan and I visited Surgeons Hall Museums mentioned in the last post and he had to get home early on the city to city bus he also persuaded me to stay on later. I was glad that he did as after several heavy rain showers in the morning it turned into a lovely sunny afternoon and evening. Also, after an almost three hour long trip and two different buses to get here and an almost six hour round trip for the day it made perfect sense to get the most out of it that I could.
As I've been to most places in Edinburgh I was keen to visit anything that was new in the five years since my last visit. The W hotel, above, was one. This is right beside the St James Quarter, a shopping mall that used to be called the St James Centre, built in the 1970s, but has recently had a one billion pound makeover. It's right next to the Edinburgh bus station where the 900 Glasgow bus pulls in so after saying goodbye to Alan I made a beeline straight for it.
St James Quarter. Most shopping centres hold no attraction for me. I get all my clothes, shoes, boots, dvd's and books at a fraction of the price from charity shops. But I do have natural curiosity to see how they are built inside and as this one has five or six different levels I made straight for the roof in this one, soaring up the various escalators with glee. Although I don't climb many mountains anymore I still enjoy ascending towards the heavens, especially if it's as easy as this. Shopping centres also have toilets in them but on this occasion that wasn't required as both Glasgow and Edinburgh bus stations have toilets in them and also the city to city buses. An important requirement when you get older. Always know where the toilets are in built up urban areas.
The skylight roof was also an attraction but as I found when I got up to it this only covered the shopping arcade and the upper level was open to the sky.
Calton Hill, where I was headed next, from the roof of the St James Quarter. I was already about five levels up at this point, the end of public access but it continues privately for several more floors. I found this strange as that makes 7 or 8 levels in total yet the adjacent spiral of the W hotel soars high above The St James Quarter by another 5 loops. A quirk of Edinburgh's street layout where buildings often rise up the slopes of ancient worn down volcanic bedrock. Which does give the city its unique architecture and skyline views with some buildings on steep slopes rising 11 or 12 levels high... and more built completely underground.
The Romance of old Edinburgh Streets. The back end of the Royal Mile leading up to Edinburgh Castle. And under all this heavy stonework yet more completely subterranean levels beneath. Interesting link here.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_King%27s_Close
If you visit as a family group several of Edinburgh's paid attractions on the same day it can add up to several hundreds pounds. Luckily I visited most of them decades ago when money seemed to spread further than it does today. Mary Kings Close 2025 Approx price. £24 Adult. Online booking recommended during summer. Edinburgh Castle £20 Adult. Add in 2 adults plus children and it's not long mounting up although you can get family tickets. Glasgow can be a much cheaper city to visit as most of its public building attractions are free. ( suggested donations only.)
But you do not have spectacular quirks like this. The W hotel. It's supposed to be a ribbon but the spiral shape, an avant- garde flourish surrounded by classic period architecture, like the nearby Balmoral Hotel, has attracted some critical comments like the 'Walnut Whip' ( not had one of those for years.) or the 'Golden Turd.' ( not as politely phrased as that either.)
Other public buildings are free to enter so it pays to look around and pick your venues. There's plenty to choose from in Edinburgh.
Calton Hill came next which has great views over the city. Taking this photo I did think if this canon still worked and was swung in the right direction the W hotel's critics could alter the Edinburgh skyline back to its former traditional glory fairly fast.
This folly gives Edinburgh it's other title 'Athens of the North.' Unless you are agile it's not that easy to climb onto it with a high first step and an awkward mantelshelf onto smooth flat surfaces. Unless you have someone to pull or push you up it can be an unexpectedly difficult challenge... and very embarrassing if you fail repeatedly....yet everyone tries. As it looks very easy at first glance. This was taken years ago. And even when you are on top the irony is.... there's not much to see that's different from a ground view.
And this was my current visit. I doubt I'd get up it myself now without embarrassing myself severely with Grandad stiffness of limbs so didn't even attempt it. I've been up it before anyway. It's a monkey thing. You are compelled to do it or attempt it. Basic instinctive behaviour. Especially if other monkey types have made it up there first.
Instead I had lunch on this bench with a view of Arthur's Seat and a quiet spot on the hill, sharing my home prepared sandwiches with two magpies and a jackdaw.
I would be heading there next and could already see loads of tourists on the summit.
After lunch though I indulged in one of my favourite pastimes... no, not that... too many people around... examining city views from a high point to see if any new buildings had appeared in the last five years.
A tightly packed Edinburgh and The Pentland Hills beyond with the white mats of the dry ski slope visible.
Another view from Calton Hill.
It was then I noticed a UK government building with several cows tethered on the grass roof, presumably to keep the grass short like living lawnmowers. Another green initiative presumably. Grass roofs are a new growing trend worldwide, Personally I thought this was rather cruel and they should have used goats instead as there didn't look to be any easy way off for them. But such is life. Many humans have it far worse, even in 2025. No one cares as much about them though.
Sunshine and dark clouds over Leith and Leith docks. This view was an inspiration for future trips.
Newhaven District and Platinum Point. Another inspiration.
St James Quarter and York Place.
From there I walked over Salisbury Crags but missed out the summit of Arthur's Seat as time was getting on. I ended up in Princes Street Gardens heading for my bus back home. But this time I was feeling tired and had done enough for one day with a 3 hour bus journey back on two different buses still to come. And more walking between them.
A lovely sunny evening though in Edinburgh. Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument.
Buchanan Bus Station. Glasgow. The loving couple. I was so stiff and knackered after my 6 hour round bus trip and walking adventures that I shuffled past here like a zombie but I soon got my rhythm back as I headed for my last bus of the day. 7:00am rise and back in the house for 9:00pm. An enjoyable day. So enjoyable and thrilling I did it all again a few days later.
So more Edinburgh posts to come. It's a wonderful city.
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