ALL PHOTOS CLICK FULL SCREEN.
Balmoral Hotel. Edinburgh. On the same day that Alan and I visited Surgeons Hall Museums mentioned in the last post and he had to get home early on the city to city bus he also persuaded me to stay on later. I was glad that he did as after several heavy rain showers in the morning it turned into a lovely sunny afternoon and evening. Also, after an almost three hour long trip and two different buses to get here and an almost six hour round trip for the day it made perfect sense to get the most out of it that I could. You would not think that two cities just 40 miles apart would take an hour and a half approx but traffic congestion and roadworks often slow it down to that so I usually take a good book along to pass the time.
As I've been to most places in Edinburgh I was keen to visit anything that was new in the five years since my last visit. The W hotel, above, was one. This is right beside the St James Quarter, a shopping mall that used to be called the St James Centre, built in the 1970s, but has recently had a one billion pound makeover. It's right next to the Edinburgh bus station where the 900 Glasgow bus pulls in so after saying goodbye to Alan I made a beeline straight for it.
St James Quarter. Most shopping centres hold no attraction for me. I get all my clothes, shoes, boots, dvd's and books at a fraction of the price from charity shops. But I do have natural curiosity to see how they are built inside and as this one has five or six different levels I made straight for the roof in this one, soaring up the various escalators with glee. Although I don't climb many mountains anymore I still enjoy ascending towards the heavens, especially if it's as easy as this. Shopping centres also have toilets in them but on this occasion that wasn't required as both Glasgow and Edinburgh bus stations have toilets in them and also the city to city buses. An important requirement when you get older. Always know where the toilets are in built up urban areas.
The skylight roof was also an attraction but as I found when I got up to it this only covered the shopping arcade and the upper level was open to the sky.
Calton Hill, where I was headed next, from the roof of the St James Quarter. I was already about five levels up at this point, the end of public access but it continues upward privately for several more floors. I found this strange as that makes 7 or 8 levels in total yet the adjacent spiral of the W hotel soars high above The St James Quarter by another 5 loops seen from a distance. Yet it doesn't look that tall standing directly underneath it.
A quirk of Edinburgh's street layout perhaps where buildings often rise up the slopes of ancient worn down volcanic bedrock. Which does give the city its unique architecture and skyline views with some buildings on steep slopes rising 11 or 12 levels high... and more built completely underground.
The Romance of old Edinburgh Streets. The back end of the Royal Mile leading up to Edinburgh Castle. And under all this heavy stonework yet more completely subterranean levels beneath. Interesting link here.
But you do not have spectacular quirks like this. The W hotel. It's supposed to be a ribbon but the spiral shape, an avant- garde flourish surrounded by classic period architecture, like the nearby Balmoral Hotel, has attracted some critical comments like the 'Walnut Whip' ( not had one of those for years.) or the 'Golden Turd.' ( not as politely phrased as that either.)
Other public buildings are free to enter so it pays to look around and pick your venues. There's plenty to choose from in Edinburgh.
Calton Hill came next which has great views over the city. Taking this photo I did think if this canon still worked and was swung in the right direction the W hotel's critics could alter the Edinburgh skyline back to its former traditional glory fairly fast.
This folly gives Edinburgh it's other title 'Athens of the North.' Unless you are agile it's not that easy to climb onto it with a high first step and an awkward mantelshelf onto smooth flat surfaces. Unless you have someone to pull or push you up it can be an unexpectedly difficult challenge... and very embarrassing if you fail repeatedly....yet everyone tries. As it looks very easy at first glance. This was taken years ago. And even when you are on top the irony is.... there's not much to see that's different from a ground view.
And this was my current visit. I doubt I'd get up it myself now without embarrassing myself severely with Grandad stiffness of limbs so didn't even attempt it. I've been up it before anyway. It's a monkey thing. You are compelled to do it or attempt it. Basic instinctive behaviour. Especially if other monkey types have made it up there first.
Instead I had lunch on this bench with a view of Arthur's Seat and a quiet spot on the hill, sharing my home prepared sandwiches with two magpies and a jackdaw.
I would be heading there next and could already see loads of tourists on the summit.
After lunch though I indulged in one of my favourite pastimes... no, not that... too many people around... examining city views from a high point to see if any new buildings had appeared in the last five years.
A tightly packed Edinburgh and The Pentland Hills beyond with the white mats of the dry ski slope visible.
Another view from Calton Hill.
It was then I noticed a UK government building with several cows tethered on the grass roof, presumably to keep the grass short like living lawnmowers. Another green initiative presumably. Grass roofs are a new growing trend worldwide so expect to see more cattle herds placed on rooftops. Personally I thought this was rather cruel and they should have used goats instead as there didn't look to be any easy way off for them. But such is life. Many humans have it far worse, even in 2025. No one cares as much about them though.
Sunshine and dark clouds over Leith and Leith docks. This view was an inspiration for future trips.
Newhaven District and Platinum Point. Another inspiration.
St James Quarter and York Place.
From there I walked over Salisbury Crags but missed out the summit of Arthur's Seat as time was getting on. I ended up in Princes Street Gardens heading for my bus back home. By this time I was feeling tired and had done enough for one day with a 3 hour bus journey back on two different buses still to come. And more walking between them.
A lovely sunny evening though in Edinburgh. Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument.
The Romance of old Edinburgh Streets. The back end of the Royal Mile leading up to Edinburgh Castle. And under all this heavy stonework yet more completely subterranean levels beneath. Interesting link here.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_King%27s_Close
If you visit as a family group several of Edinburgh's paid attractions on the same day it can add up to several hundreds pounds. Luckily I visited most of them decades ago when money seemed to spread further than it does today. Mary Kings Close 2025 Approx price. £24 Adult. Online booking recommended during summer. Edinburgh Castle £20 Adult. Add in 2 adults plus children and it's not long mounting up although you can get family tickets. Glasgow can be a much cheaper city to visit as most of its public building attractions are free. ( suggested donations only.)
But you do not have spectacular quirks like this. The W hotel. It's supposed to be a ribbon but the spiral shape, an avant- garde flourish surrounded by classic period architecture, like the nearby Balmoral Hotel, has attracted some critical comments like the 'Walnut Whip' ( not had one of those for years.) or the 'Golden Turd.' ( not as politely phrased as that either.)
Other public buildings are free to enter so it pays to look around and pick your venues. There's plenty to choose from in Edinburgh.
Calton Hill came next which has great views over the city. Taking this photo I did think if this canon still worked and was swung in the right direction the W hotel's critics could alter the Edinburgh skyline back to its former traditional glory fairly fast.
This folly gives Edinburgh it's other title 'Athens of the North.' Unless you are agile it's not that easy to climb onto it with a high first step and an awkward mantelshelf onto smooth flat surfaces. Unless you have someone to pull or push you up it can be an unexpectedly difficult challenge... and very embarrassing if you fail repeatedly....yet everyone tries. As it looks very easy at first glance. This was taken years ago. And even when you are on top the irony is.... there's not much to see that's different from a ground view.
And this was my current visit. I doubt I'd get up it myself now without embarrassing myself severely with Grandad stiffness of limbs so didn't even attempt it. I've been up it before anyway. It's a monkey thing. You are compelled to do it or attempt it. Basic instinctive behaviour. Especially if other monkey types have made it up there first.
Instead I had lunch on this bench with a view of Arthur's Seat and a quiet spot on the hill, sharing my home prepared sandwiches with two magpies and a jackdaw.
I would be heading there next and could already see loads of tourists on the summit.
After lunch though I indulged in one of my favourite pastimes... no, not that... too many people around... examining city views from a high point to see if any new buildings had appeared in the last five years.
A tightly packed Edinburgh and The Pentland Hills beyond with the white mats of the dry ski slope visible.
Another view from Calton Hill.
It was then I noticed a UK government building with several cows tethered on the grass roof, presumably to keep the grass short like living lawnmowers. Another green initiative presumably. Grass roofs are a new growing trend worldwide so expect to see more cattle herds placed on rooftops. Personally I thought this was rather cruel and they should have used goats instead as there didn't look to be any easy way off for them. But such is life. Many humans have it far worse, even in 2025. No one cares as much about them though.
Sunshine and dark clouds over Leith and Leith docks. This view was an inspiration for future trips.
Newhaven District and Platinum Point. Another inspiration.
St James Quarter and York Place.
From there I walked over Salisbury Crags but missed out the summit of Arthur's Seat as time was getting on. I ended up in Princes Street Gardens heading for my bus back home. By this time I was feeling tired and had done enough for one day with a 3 hour bus journey back on two different buses still to come. And more walking between them.
A lovely sunny evening though in Edinburgh. Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument.
Buchanan Bus Station. Glasgow. The loving couple. I was so stiff and knackered after my 6 hour round bus trip and walking adventures that I shuffled past here like a zombie but I soon got my rhythm back as I headed for my last bus of the day. 7:00am rise and back in the house for 9:00pm. An enjoyable day. So enjoyable and thrilling I did it all again a few days later.
So more Edinburgh posts to come. It's a wonderful city.
11 comments:
That hotel is rather dominating, isn’t it? It’s in several of your shots. I don’t really see the point of it spiralling in the air! Give me traditional architecture over that.
Hi Anabel. Funnily enough that hotel doesn't look that tall when you are standing directly underneath it, almost the same height as the 7 or 8 level St James Quarter, yet it towers above everything else in that area. I have a directly standing underneath it photo. Weird.
Which I've now added to the post.
A wonderful city indeed! How I long to see Edinburgh! Very often, I enjoy the blend of new architecture mixed with the old but that W Hotel with the golden hmm...swirl? That just hurts my eyes! I must look up the architect. Perhaps he was having a very bad day.
Just looked it up further and it is called the Ribbon Building. The thing is it is that "ribbon" on top that ruins it. Without that, the building would be so much better.
I take it Arthur's Seat has got over it's burning now - or was that the other side not in your photo? I think it's really cruel to tether animals anywhere in a city, especially on rooves!
Like I said in your last post, I love that W Hotel and I normally hate modern architecture. Walnut Whip the title for me! Marks & Spencers do them by the way and they're very nice too... Packs of 3 with different decoration or flavours...
Hi Kay, yes you would love Edinburgh and Mary Kings Close. The oldest part of the city is perfectly preserved and all within walking distance and is really spectacular. It is very crowded though and heaving with tourists which is why the other posts on Edinburgh will highlight quieter parts of the city that I've been to as well.
Cheers Carol, Glad you mentioned the cows. As soon as I saw that photo with the fake cows on the roof I thought I'm going to use that to make a point about social media and the truth.... or lack of it. Obviously they are ceramic or some other material but so many people online now believe what they read or see on there instead of traditional news outlets. Social media has the power to destroy democracy, culture, and countries worldwide or start wars and you only have to look at the USA to see that in action right now where so many people believe in 'alternative facts' it appears to be half the country. It could also come here in the UK with a disgruntled population picking the wrong party and it would be partly the other parties fault by being so crap at the job. But who would want to be a politician anyway in a modern society where truthful reports often lag so far behind lies. So thank you for noticing it... I was starting to wonder if anyone would see it and comment on it. I did think at first what are cows doing up there from a distance?
Across the whole of Edinburgh the ground looked very dry as it gets half the rainfall of the west and even in Glasgow it's been a very dry spring and summer. Glad you saved that little lamb. That was a kind act. Hopefully the farmer leaves it alone in the field now with the rest.
I wouldn't say I believed they were real cows - I couldn't tell from the distance they were at - I was just really hoping they weren't!
Edinburgh is a quirky place. I even had a bus I wanted to get to the outskirts hide from me by sneaking past on the minor back streets while I waited on the obvious main road. When I did eventually find it I couldn't believe how sneaky the route was going right across Edinburgh yet skillfully avoiding practically every main street that all the other buses ran down.
And I deliberately picked a distance photograph so it was harder to tell if the cows were real or not. Ambiguity works wonders :o) Back to hopeful facts again now for future posts. If it's wrong It's because I made an error while researching it.... not a deliberate one.
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